Rat's Tooth 5.10a
| 894 page views
Good page?   |
Add Photo  Printer View
Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>
On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description There are two different variations to the Rat's Tooth. I have done the center variation, described below. The squeeze chimney on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is Touch and Go.
Center: Thin fingercrack to start, with thin feet. I liebacked up to where the crack widens to get gear, and moved up as the crack eased in difficulty. Do a funky move to exit the pinched shut chimney and walk left to the chains. Last 40 feet of the climb are shared with Touch and Go.
Left Variation: Looks wide (4-5") much of the way. I haven't done it. Guidebook says it is 5.9
NOTE: The Carville guide (1996) says the center is 5.9. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide says it is .10a, which I found to be more accurate.
Location Just left of Touch and Go and One Hand Clapping, on the left side of Black Wall. The distinctive Rat's Tooth is hard to miss.
Protection Center variation: standard rack to #3 camalot
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b
| I'm a 5.10- leader and found this pretty challenging. Getting in good pro in the bottom section lieback is very pumpy. The escape from the top chimney is definitely awkward and a bit exposed.
Technical in places, strenuous in others, make this a great climb.
The anchors at the top are too far to the left to make this top ropeable. |
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Oct 31, 2011
| I agree with you, Bruce, the center route is burly for sure. I got it first go but it was committing with pumpy lie backing and insecure feet. I cleaned my own gear and it felt much easier, but that's knowing the route, being warmed up, and not worrying about placing gear in a taxing section. The onsight on this is definitely not a gimme and is a climb I'd place somewhere in the ten range. |
By 213blc
From: THA WEST COAST
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| The climb can be easily toproped via a directional BD .4-.5 just past the final pullover onto the slab section. The rope is easily flipped into position by walking up towards OHC and gettin your flip on. Have fun! |
By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 10, 2012
| I actually thought the lower section while strenuous was more straight forward than the flaring chimney deal before you hit the jugs in the middle of the vertical section. This was the first lead I did when I moved to Tahoe a decade ago and I remember thinking after the onsight (we did it as the first pitch to the link up Empty Overgo) that the grades in Tahoe were a lot stiffer than the grades in Vegas. |
|
RSS Feed
56 more...
