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There are two different variations to the Rat's Tooth. I have done the center variation, described below. The squeeze chimney on the right side of the Rat's Tooth is Touch and Go.
Center: Thin fingercrack to start, with thin feet. I liebacked up to where the crack widens to get gear, and moved up as the crack eased in difficulty. Do a funky move to exit the pinched shut chimney and walk left to the chains. Last 40 feet of the climb are shared with Touch and Go.
Left Variation: Looks wide (4-5") much of the way. I haven't done it. Guidebook says it is 5.9
NOTE: The Carville guide (1996) says the center is 5.9. The 1986 Jenkewitz-Meytras guide says it is .10a, which I found to be more accurate.
Just left of Touch and Go and One Hand Clapping, on the left side of Black Wall. The distinctive Rat's Tooth is hard to miss.
Center variation: standard rack to #3 camalot
From: Reno, NV
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
I'm a 5.10- leader and found this pretty challenging. Getting in good pro in the bottom section lieback is very pumpy. The escape from the top chimney is definitely awkward and a bit exposed.
Technical in places, strenuous in others, make this a great climb.
The anchors at the top are too far to the left to make this top ropeable.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Oct 31, 2011
I agree with you, Bruce, the center route is burly for sure. I got it first go but it was committing with pumpy lie backing and insecure feet. I cleaned my own gear and it felt much easier, but that's knowing the route, being warmed up, and not worrying about placing gear in a taxing section. The onsight on this is definitely not a gimme and is a climb I'd place somewhere in the ten range.
From: THA WEST COAST
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
The climb can be easily toproped via a directional BD .4-.5 just past the final pullover onto the slab section. The rope is easily flipped into position by walking up towards OHC and gettin your flip on. Have fun!
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Jul 10, 2012
I actually thought the lower section while strenuous was more straight forward than the flaring chimney deal before you hit the jugs in the middle of the vertical section. This was the first lead I did when I moved to Tahoe a decade ago and I remember thinking after the onsight (we did it as the first pitch to the link up Empty Overgo) that the grades in Tahoe were a lot stiffer than the grades in Vegas.