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 ADVANCED
Central Gully
Select Route:
Blue In Green S 
Footprints S 
Helicopter Effect T 
Magali's Arete S 
Objectivist Tendencies T 
Rational Expectations S 
Seven Steps to Heaven S 
Snickerdoodle S 
Spontaneous Order S 
Straight, No Chaser T 
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 

Rational Expectations 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Romain Wacziarg & Matthew Fienup (January 2008)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,835
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jan 21, 2008

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Romain Wacziarg climbs "Rational Expectations...

Description 

Fairly steep, exposed face climbing on nice, positive edges. Two small overhangs mix it up a little.

A fairly varied route considering the modest height. Excellent position from start to finish.

Location 

APPROACH
(1) Climb Blue In Green to reach the "Lunch Ledge" at the base of Rational Expectations.

(2)Move from the top of Snickerdoodle over to the base of Rational Expectations by making one 30-foot rappel, stepping across the chimney and then scrambling for about 10 feet while still protected by the rappel rope. For more info, click here


DESCENT
Climb Seven Steps to the top and rappel to the base of Adaptive Expectations or rappel back to the start of the route and then rap into the Central Gully, making one more rappel to reach the creek.

Protection 

4 lead bolts (all 1/2" Rawls), a single 1-2" piece for the roof. Bolted top anchor.


Photos of Rational Expectations Slideshow Add Photo
Phil Fontilea, Rational Expectations (5.7) at the ...
Phil Fontilea, Rational Expectations (5.7) at the ...
Rational Expectations topo
BETA PHOTO: Rational Expectations topo
Marisa Fienup on Rational Expectations, at the For...
Marisa Fienup on Rational Expectations, at the For...
This circle shows the location of Rational Expecta...
BETA PHOTO: This circle shows the location of Rational Expecta...
Francine Beattie climbs Rational Expectations, at ...
Francine Beattie climbs Rational Expectations, at ...

Comments on Rational Expectations Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 14, 2008

I led this route for the first time last week--WOW! Great rock, great exposure. If only this route were another 40 feet long...

In any case, don't let your partner grab the lead on this one.
By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Mar 25, 2009

Last two bolts are a bit runout (especially the last). I'd recommend bringing a few stoppers to protect this route. I placed one in between bolts 3 and 4 and another between the fourth bolt and the anchor. One of the better routes in the area.
By Wei-Li
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 20, 2014

Just led this 10/18/2014. There are NO bolts between the two overhangs. The moves aren't difficult but the exposure and run out bolts make the route a mental challenge.