Rating of Goodro's Wall

I have done this climb maybe 6 times over the last 25 years, never lead it. Last year lead it poorly because of poor cam placement. Talked w/Andy at IME, he suggested nuts. Of course! Made a huge difference today.

On lead I discovered a little easier way to top out moving left. I normally finished fairly straight up, moving slightly right, which might be the basis for the 10b/c rating. For most of the years I did it. it was rated 5.9+. I think objectively, no move is harder than 5.9 (with possible exception of the harder finish), but there are no real rests and quite sustained especially after the roof, and of course very fine grained smooth slab face surfaces. On that basis I would say it merits a hard 5.10a rating, very few 5.10a leaders are going to be able to do it cleanly.

I would be interested in the reasons for a rating(5.10a,b,c or even 5.9)(including how it you finished or both finishes) by those 5.10 leaders that can lead it cleanly, especially on sight.

Hey Steve,

The answer is pretty simple and transfers to a lot of ratings and comments people post

It gets a harder rating from those who want to feel better about themselves, and an easier rating from those who want to feel better than others.

Like

It's always desperate in the big.

Steve, it was rated 5.9+ because like many climbs done in the early years the top of scale was 5.9 so that is what they got rated. It was only in the 60s that the 5.10 rating came into being. Many George Lowe routes are old school 5.9+ which mean more than likely 5.10.

The 5.10 rating is reasonable, there are some key spots on the route that if done right will make it a cruz, if done wrong a thrash fest. As for the finish, going straight up is slightly harder than going a bit left. Back before the bolts one had to fully clear the top moves. Now it is not needed.

BTW, Years I got the chance to chat with Harold about the route. That was good fun.

michael layton wrote:Hey Steve, The answer is pretty simple and transfers to a lot of ratings and comments people post It gets a harder rating from those who want to feel better about themselves, and an easier rating from those who want to feel better than others.

Mike, are you still running around with that cutie from AK?

You point out a perspective that I ought to be aware of. I was hoping to keep it more objective by asking for the reasons and experience behind a suggested rating.

From my experience, especially climbing in RR and using MP as my primary guide, the variance in rating seems to have more to do with the difference between the consensus of the climb and the skill of the rating climber. I.e., if a climber leads 5.12 and does a 5.10 climb, he finds the rating soft. I know when I'm leading 5.10 hard, I can't really tell the difference between 5.8 and 5.9.

I appreciate Allen's input

I think you should still count it as 10c. That could be the difference between ranking 134,286 and 189,401 on 8a.nu.
How hard do you think Sasquatch is?

yeah steve I married her!

I'll chime in, and give it a 5.10c rating per the ruckman guide. Led this thing a few years back with a million hang dogs. Finally red pointed it last week (only the 2nd time climbing it), and was gassed at the top. FYI Steve I went left at the top due to mega pump, and overall wooseyness.