Rather Fight Than Switch 5.10a
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Mike Neri and Casey Swanson, 1977 |
| Submitted By: | jason seaver on May 31, 2002 |
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The route....
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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This fine pitch is on the east face of the Twin Owls. 30 feet right of the base of the East Ridge is a very obvious, wide chimney. This is Turn, Turn, Turn - 5.7. The next continuous crack system to the right is Switch Cracks - 5.8. Switch Cracks bails left onto Turn, Turn, Turn after 70 feet while Rather Fight Than switch continues up the crack system through the obvious roof above. There is excellent jamming throughout the entire pitch with some wild, STEEP hands through the final roof. I'd say it's on the burly side of the 10a grade. You can rap from a sling anchor just down and left from the top of the pitch, or continue with another fun pitch of 5.7 or so.
[AKA: Smoke Um If Ya Got UM]
Protection A few big pieces (#3 Camalot size) are nice to have.
| Comments on Rather Fight Than Switch |
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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 3, 2003
| Tape up, take a few deep breaths, and go for it. Warning -- this 5.10a is not a Shelf Rd. or Boulder Canyon warm up. |
By W. Spaller
From: Estes Park
Aug 30, 2010
| A #4 is a great piece to have to protect right before you begin the crux roof. This climb is probably the most difficult 10a I've ever attempted. |
By Lew Strong
From: Loveland/Vail, CO
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c
| I am not sure why this climb does not get more attention. One of the better one pitch Lumpy climbs. It is technically moderate but severely strenous (at least with my technique). The protection is good. A #2, 3, 4, and 5 Camalot will absolutely sew up crux. It is much, much harder than Gollum's Arch Crack. 10b/c, I would say. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.10c
| I think this route probably doesn't get the attention it deserves, because it's in a relatively obscure location and it's kind of dirty. This route is good - albeit a bit sandbagged in my honest opinion. I think I have been on harder 5.11- in places. But, it's a good route nonethless and protects well. It truly is better to fight for this one than switch and cruise the 5.8. Very worth it. |
By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Sep 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Followed this fine route this afternoon. While I will say that it is physically and mentally demanding (on lead), with all due respect, I do not think that it is sandbagged. That said, this is not a "Beginner's 10a". I am 5'11" and did not have any serious reach issues through the crux. Leaving the helmet on the ground will help w/ placing gear high at the crux and maneuvering. It's a bit wonky (in a Fun way!), and a little uncharacteristic of Lumpy, but if you've done some roofs before, or climbed in Vedauwoo, WY then you will find this route less intimidating IMHO. Enjoy! |
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