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Sunset Bay
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Drainpipe Crack T 
Rat Up A Drainpipe T,TR 

Rat Up A Drainpipe 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c X

Type:  Trad, TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, 2nd September 1986
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Feb 23, 2010

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Feeling out the moves on Rat Up a Drainpipe


Start up the thin shallow cracks. You get some good small gear at the tops of these cracks.

With the gear placed launch out on a lonely lead, since the gear will only protect the first 40 feet of climbing.

Small crimps and shallow cracks lead up and over a small overlap then more crimping continues on up directly to the crux moves 6 feet below the niche. Its only 6 feet, but it has the potential of feeling longer than that...


Middle of the wall to the left of the cave


It is possible to safely top rope this from the niche belay. Otherwise bring some RPs, HBs and a bottle of courage

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By Euan Cameron
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Feb 23, 2010

After a complete trauma on lead, I backed off and TR'd the climb first. Great moves but very serious climbing.

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