||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Joe French and Jersey Dave Littman|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||spring or fall|
|Page Views: ||984|
|Submitted By: ||jersey on Feb 19, 2010|
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|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Rat Salad climbs directly up the East prow of the Sanctuary on soft white rock slabs. Some simu-climbing was done, some marginal belays and bushes were used. The Crux is at the pin (was a solid placement at the time of the f.a.). Cross the summit plateau and scramble up the final summit block.
Descent- rappels from pines to a single drilled pin in the lower angle slab.
1 each of B.D. cams .5-3, 2 each of TCU's 1-3, 2- 200 ft. ropes