Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tourist Trap
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angstrom's Away S 
Nipple Jam T 
Pickpocket S 
Rat Face TR 
Rat Race T 
Thrill Hammer T,S 
Wee Little One S 

Rat Race 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: dry
Page Views: 1,432
Submitted By: rhyang on Jan 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
10-April-2010: Me below the roof

Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Head up a crack, pass a tree into a left-facing corner beneath a big roof. Place a couple of pieces in the lip, then reach up to the hidden hold and stem over the roof. Jamming skills useful here. The roof looks hard but is actually not so bad if you get the sequence right. Bolt anchor at the top with rings.

Location 

Take the Moses Spring trail from the parking lot, and turn right at the Tourist Trap sign; scramble down and then back up. Last year a lot of work was done in this area and there are new stone steps. There is a tree near the base which makes a good belay anchor.

Descend by rappel.

Protection 

The books say pro to 4-5", but #2 / 0.75 camalots fit in the lip just fine. Perhaps some mid-sized nuts if you really want to sew it up. Long sling for the tree.


Photos of Rat Race Slideshow Add Photo
pulling the roof
pulling the roof

Comments on Rat Race Add Comment
Show which comments
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 9, 2011

Great climb! I didn't believe this roof would go at 5.7 until I committed to the moves. That jug above the roof is key. With some perfect jams and smearing on the right, just go for it. #2 BD in the roof protects perfectly. Rock is solid here.