Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
10-April-2010: Me below the roof
Head up a crack, pass a tree into a left-facing corner beneath a big roof. Place a couple of pieces in the lip, then reach up to the hidden hold and stem over the roof. Jamming skills useful here. The roof looks hard but is actually not so bad if you get the sequence right. Bolt anchor at the top with rings.
Take the Moses Spring trail from the parking lot, and turn right at the Tourist Trap sign; scramble down and then back up. Last year a lot of work was done in this area and there are new stone steps. There is a tree near the base which makes a good belay anchor.
Descend by rappel.
The books say pro to 4-5", but #2 / 0.75 camalots fit in the lip just fine. Perhaps some mid-sized nuts if you really want to sew it up. Long sling for the tree.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 9, 2011
Great climb! I didn't believe this roof would go at 5.7 until I committed to the moves. That jug above the roof is key. With some perfect jams and smearing on the right, just go for it. #2 BD in the roof protects perfectly. Rock is solid here.
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roof is easier that it looks (from the ground or immediately below it); but I don't think its 5.7 easy. Anchor on top is well placed for rappel but will pendulum swing anyone trying to follow on TR if they fail on the roof.