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Same start as Civilized Evil. Hike up to the first bolt of CE then step out right on small holds. The second bolt is very close by and is used to protect the crux which consists of a hard crank on a sharp thin left hand moving up to a shallow pocket for the right. It is a bit run out to the third bolt but the climbing is only 5.8ish the rest of the way. Ken has a vision of taking this route all the way over the red roof above (I hope that wasn't a secret!)
3 bolts. Use Civilized Evil anchors.
Apr 18, 2005
Ken and I finished the extension to the lower part of this route by going through the fairly difficult roof sequence and continuing up past a couple bolts to the anchors. Anyone who has completed the route should help with solidifying the rating , which I think is subjective at this point, might be as "easy" as 11b and probably not 11d! I could care less about the rating as much as I like to make sure climbers have a idea about the risks and difficulty before perhaps getting over their heads! Or busting their noodle! Happy climbing! Splitter not spliiter.
|By AAA Climber|
Apr 19, 2005
Dude, there's only like 3 people in the whole County that climb 5.11a (or harder). Maybe you should just call them directly & have them check it out. The rest of us mortals will just be content to watch.
|By Ken Klis|
Feb 21, 2006
Climb past 2 bolts just right of Civilized Evil, at about .11a, then relatively easy ground to 3rd bolt, continue up and right, approaching the 4th bolt (right of Dirty Rat's Crack)with medium cams protecting moderate climbing, clip 4th bolt either from left or straight up (being more sustained)on the overhanging roof. Dynamic moves over roof, clip 5th and last bolt from stance above lip and then thin pro on the .10a thin crack to the anchors. Very loose flakes above anchors, keep out.
Not an R by any means, and Jeff Davis seconded the F.A.
|By David Gealy|
From: Berkeley, California
Oct 22, 2012
New stronger climbers are getting on these things, thanks Ken for putting it up and extending it through the roof! It went at 11b for me, but that's because I had tall-man's beta. pulling the actual roof was a committing mantle, but nothing dynamic. I almost find the lower "11a" crux harder.
|By Ken Klis|
Oct 23, 2012
11.d is fair if you lead the roof without beta, but it is one of those routes that gets easier with beta or rehearsal.
The lower move has a key right foot that has become slick like a boulderer's lexicon.