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Cross Barker Dam; drop off the left (west) side and proceed for about a hundred feet around the formation and up a slab to an upward and left sweeping crack system just to the right of "Bad Lizards". Climb the crack to a horizontal ledge. Traverse left and surmount it. Continue up a crack on your left to the top. No rap anchors. Go left (north) to downclimb.
By Woody Stark
Feb 28, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
With all the jabber about False Rat Ledge etc., I was again surprised the routes in this area weren't in the database. This is a decent route that both of us thought was pretty stiff for 5.8. Of course, we used it as a warm-up which might have been the problem. This route is just to the right of and crosses "Bad Lizards". We had a good day here: good weather, the thrill of tippy toeing across the dam with water passing over it, at least a hundred tourists gawking and taking pics etc. etc.