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Swirley Boulder
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Amnesia 
Certain Other, The 
Child of the Storm 
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Jon's Arete 
Rat Fish Dyno 
Rose, The 
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Rat Fish Dyno 

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 1,177
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Feb 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The very hard one mover on the swirley boulder

Description 

This is a quick one-move wonder for those with a big wingspan and strong fingers. On the face on the backside of the swirly boulder, locate the unusual black triangular pinch. Grab this with your right hand and find one of two sloping dishes out left for your other hand. Put a foot on the wall and dyno for the sloping lip of the boulder. Catch it and top out. It takes nearly a six-foot wingspan just to grab onto the starting holds, so the grade is arbitrary at best - it's v-impossible if your reach is too much less than 6'.

Location 

On the backside of the Swirly Boulder next to the Rose.

Protection 

Pads and a spot.


Photos of Rat Fish Dyno Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Iron cross start on the Rat Fish Dyno
Iron cross start on the Rat Fish Dyno

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By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Dec 3, 2011

I don't really understand why this boulder only gets one star. The rock is good, the holds are cool, the movement is cool... is it just because it outrageously favors the tall that it should get less stars? Ridic. There is nothing that detracts from this bloc.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 3, 2011

It's a hard one-move problem on a boulder with several more famous and aesthetic lines. No surprise to me that it gets no respect.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Mar 7, 2012

maybe more famous, but not necessarily more aesthetic.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Hopkinton NH
May 6, 2016

I've spent a lot of time on this thing and although I've hit the lip multiple times I just can't keep my right hand on long enough to control the swing. I recently starting trying this from a jump start and it is way harder than I expected. Grab the R hand starting hold and jump to the lip with your L. Has anyone had any luck with this route from the jump start? If so how the heck do you match the lip on this monster?

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