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Rat Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Dec 17, 2007

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stretchin out on Rat Crack

Open with restrictions - Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The start on on the right wall of a chimney that rises 1/3 of the climb into an off width. the final moves are hands / fingers to the top. A great climb and a good introduction to chimneys.

Location 

The route is obvious from the base, find the large chimney, left side of the crag as you face it- rap from tree anchors to decend.
70m helpful- tie knots at the end of your cord if using a 60m

Protection 

Standard trad rack to 3", no fixed gear but solid trees for an anchor.


Photos of Rat Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Pete stayin' alive at the base of Rat Crack.
Pete stayin' alive at the base of Rat Crack.
Looking up the Rat Crack chimney
Looking up the Rat Crack chimney
Enjoying the Chimney section down low
Enjoying the Chimney section down low

Comments on Rat Crack Add Comment
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By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Classic Fritz route. Strenuous.
By jackkelly00
May 28, 2010

Awesome route. Crack and chimney climbing. Old school 5.7. In my humble opinion one of the best 5.7 leads in CT

Starts as a finger crack then through a bulge. Goes to chimney (almost runout) then to some hand crack.

Gear to 4"
By Kurtz
Sep 24, 2012

Beware the poison ivy vine on climber's right about 15 ft from the top.
By Jim S
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hands down my favorite CT route to date, strenuous and exhilarating. This route has every aspect of climbing, chimney, face, cracks, off with & tons of excitement. Found it to be completely G except one easy section on top. Part of me feels as if I mentally evolved after reaching completing this objective. PTCOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!