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Rat Crack Variation 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Jenson
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Rat Crack Variation (5.9), Lake Perris SRA


Start up the Rat Crack until it is possible to gain a stance and clip a bolt on the right. Venture right onto the face and proceed to the top via two more bolts.


Just right of Rat Crack.


Hand size pro for crack start then 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor on top.

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By C Miller
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Start up Rat crack, do the crux of that route then cut right to a bolt out right (new 3/8"). The climb then goes straight up to reach the left side of a horizontal crack which is foot-traversed straight right for about 10-15 feet, clips a rusty bolt and then continues up on rough orange rock past one more rusty bolt to a rusty anchor.

Fun climbing on this but it looks like this route hasn't been done in years with the flaky rock and vegetated horizontal crack mid-route. Were this to get cleaned up and the bolts replaced it might actually get done more often.