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Rat Crack Variation 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Jenson
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Rat Crack Variation (5.9), Lake Perris SRA

Description 

Start up the Rat Crack until it is possible to gain a stance and clip a bolt on the right. Venture right onto the face and proceed to the top via two more bolts.


Location 

Just right of Rat Crack.


Protection 

Hand size pro for crack start then 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor on top.



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By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Start up Rat crack, do the crux of that route then cut right to a bolt out right (new 3/8"). The climb then goes straight up to reach the left side of a horizontal crack which is foot-traversed straight right for about 10-15 feet, clips a rusty bolt and then continues up on rough orange rock past one more rusty bolt to a rusty anchor.

Fun climbing on this but it looks like this route hasn't been done in years with the flaky rock and vegetated horizontal crack mid-route. Were this to get cleaned up and the bolts replaced it might actually get done more often.