|Wind Tower - SW Face
BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...
Refer to the directions to Reggae. This route is a significant variation of Reggae, in that it has 40' of independent climbing, skips the crux of Reggae and gives one of a harder an much different nature.
After starting up Reggae, and going about 40 or so feet, Reggae starts to get more vertical and difficult. In the attached picture, this is [almost] due right of the climber on Reggae. At this point, move up and right to a right-leaning crack system. A little gear will be possible there, but not a lot, so protect well before you leave the initial dihedral. [The] moves are not difficult until you reach the roof. Move up and right in the crack to head for the apex of the obvious roof above. An eye-of the needle can be threaded by the leader, but this is not your destination.
Instead, get to the apex of the roof, just left of the left-facing dihedral at its side. Hand-jam out on strenous but solid moves though the roof and over the top of the blocks which form it.
Go down and right to belay before taking [the] scramble off as for Reggae.
The protection is reasonable. If approaching from Calypso-to-Reggae, a set of stoppers and a set of cams should do. Crux pro for Rastaman Roof (in the roof) is 2-3" cams.
|Comments on Rastaman Roof
|By Clint Locks|
Jul 16, 2003
A nice variation to Reggae, a classic in its own right. The pro IS a bit thin from the Reggae dihedral out on the slab, but the climbing is pretty moderate. Do your best to protect your second; the swing would be a bummer there. The pro is great under the roof and it's a very airy and strenous (albeit short) crux!
A short downclimb gets you to the double bolt rap anchors in an alcove. Two raps on a 60 meter line.
|By Brent Roaten|
From: Anchorage, AK
Apr 27, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Linked this route with Boulder Direct yesterday rather than Reggae. Very well protected crux with solid hand jams above the roof.
|By Eric Klammer|
From: Boulder, CO
5 days ago
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Super fun couple of moves, if only it was longer! Seemed too easy to warrant the dreaded 5.9+ grade, but this may be accurate for those with a shorter reach. I was able to grab/jam the crack at the lip, pull up, then latch on to the jug further up and pull over.