Rasta Wall 5.7 A3-4
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| Type: | Aid, 5 pitches, 440 feet, Grade IV |
| Consensus: | 5.7 A3+ [details] |
| FA: | Jim Beyer in the 80's |
| Season: | Whenever the mud calls |
| Submitted By: | Joe Forrester on Mar 25, 2011 |
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Leading pitch 1
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Description P1- Obvious splitter beak crack to tension traverse to another beak crack. There is a loose flake with some big swing potential. Go up through two roofs, then up C1/2 crack to two bolt anchor in alcove. One new bolt added to anchor to replace old POS bolt. Need small gear to supplement anchor, we used a beak and a small angle. 140'
P2- Head out the TCU roof into mud crack above. Pitch will likely go all free at some point, potentially hard 5.11. Definitely will go all clean on next ascent. End at hanging belay, one new 3/8 by 3.5" bolt added to belay to augment dilapidated anchors/leeper hangers. 60'
P3- Stellar beak/ small gear seam up the vertical to slightly overhanging face. One rivet on pitch, a new rivet was placed adjacent to it. This was the only rivet mentioned in the original topo so the only one replaced. One 3/8 by 3.5" and one 3/8 by 1.5 bolt added to belay to replace old bolts.
P4- Beak seam to great C1 wideness with wild roof moves, one 3/8 by 1.5" bolt added to anchor. There were rivets on this pitch not mentioned in the original topo, so none were replaced and are old and moderately suspect.
P5- Easy free climbing leads to summit.
Descent - Rap the route
Location The route is on the SW aspect of River Tower. Find the start by hiking up to the obvious prow and peeking around the corner to the south. If you need more help than that, hit yourself in the head with your hammer and hope you don't survive.
Protection Beaks helpful in lieu of knifeblades. Standard fishers aid rack with a couple leeper-z and a few bigger angles. Can leave all the big iron at home. Big cams make life more fun. Off set aliens helpful. As mentioned in the description, each anchor has at least one new bolt to augment the old stuff.
Leading pitch 1 before the pendulum
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Finishing the roofs on pitch 1
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Erik Rieger cleaning pitch 1
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Pitch 1 belay anchor
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Erik starting the roof on pitch 2. His first aid ...
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Leading the beak seam on pitch 3
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Erik cleaning P3
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More of Erik cleaning pitch 3
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Joe starting pitch 4
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Joe pulling the final roof moves. Pretty fun
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Erik's first of the Fisher type towers, and first ...
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Flying the Jolly Roger on the first pitch
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By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 25, 2011
| Not sure how many ascents this thing has had, anyone want to chime in? |
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.7 A3
| Nice Joe! Thanks for updating the anchors.
WOO HOO!!
I know Cammo/Ralph and Crusher have done it.
Gotta be less that 8 ascents?
Looks SWEET!
JOE EDIT: Joe, was there a register? I can't remember! |
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 26, 2011
| I didnt see a register up top, and don't remember seeing one after we did The Flow or after I did with Merrill. Far as I know, non-existent. |
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 27, 2011
| I would say probably less than 5 based on how the rock looked but who knows. |
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 27, 2011
| I gave it a drunken half/hearted attempt last fall... I was shut down by a lack of testicular fortitude, and that shallow pod up/right of the initial seam on P1. A large sawed off angle blew as I bounce tested it and a scary off-blance swing onto 2 stacked peckers forced me to re-evaluate my Fisher credentials. I recall sending Jeremy A. an extremely drunken email asking just how the hell do you climb those shallow cuttler seams? - he understandingly never replied (no hard feelings).
Can't wait to get back on that thing and have the topo hanging above my desk. What a striking line! Nice Work Joe! |
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 28, 2011
rating: 5.7 A3
| Kevin,
I emailed you back...you musta been drinkin... :-)
Be safe out there!
Jeremy |
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Apr 2, 2011
| "A large sawed off angle blew as I bounce tested it and a scary off-blance swing onto 2 stacked peckers..."
Whoops!
I try to bounce test most everything, but gently. When I get up on the piece--no sneezing!
With the slots, I've had more luck by first hammering a bugaboo or knifeblade deep in, then methodically stacking things around it, then tying off the whole shebang. The leverage on the placement is as good as it can be. Deepening a slot is safer, and makes the slot more usable down the road for everyone else. If the slot is totally blind and the bugaboo does not bite, either finagle a small Alien (if it's large enough), or hammer a nut (stopperhead-style) into it. Sawed-off angles seem to be fickle creatures in the Fishers--never use 'em (I climbed the classics so long ago they didn't have all the slots).
I climbed this with Ralph E. Burns. Don't know if Cam Burns ever climbed this (Cam?). Cam Burns and Mike Baker climbed The Flow, on the front face, just a couple weeks before Dave Levine and I arrived, hiked our gear in, all psyched to climb a new route, and saw all the bolts.....boo hoo |
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto, CA
Apr 2, 2011
| Crusher,
I don't think it has seen too many ascents. Did y'all have the 3/8th in bolts when you were on the thing? There seemed to be several that weren't in the Desert Rock III descripton.
Your book is a hit too, thanks again.
Joe |
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Apr 4, 2011
| Thanks for the insight Crusher - I picked up a copy of your book and it's been a great source of (endless) inspiration. |
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 30, 2012
rating: 5.7 A3
| Cool route. 3rd pitch is crux at about A3(-)or so due to shitty rock.
Rest of route is A2 or easier. Another Beyer classic!
This is a great intro nailing route for the Fishers.
JA |
By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 A3
| BTW, pitch 4 requires some/a bunch of back cleaning of big cams.
We had a 4.5 Camalot and that was big enough. No #5 needed. |
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