|By Christopher Barlow|
Dec 22, 2009
I think the FFA is Bentley Brackett. To my knowledge, Litz never actually sent. There's a bit of a technicality here. On his first attempt, James hung at the 12a crux on the lower face, then fired the roof. On his second attempt, he did actually fall on the roof. I think Bentley has the first complete redpoint. Still, it was rather impressive watching James flash the roof, topping it off by clipping the anchor while dead hanging off the three-finger, sloping pocket.