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The Castle
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L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb 
Camel Walk, The 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 
Dalke - Jennings 
Dewitt Route 
Dungeon, The 
Great Chimney Route 
Hardgumbi's Lament 
Nose, The 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route 
Southeast Gully 
Throne Room 
Uncle Wiggly 
Wiggins Route 
You Can't Chop This 


YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Patrick Peddy
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 897
Submitted By: Patrick Peddy on Apr 15, 2009
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Rapunzel, The Castle.


This is the sustained, tight-hands crack located on the climbers' right side wall at the entrance of the mountaineer's gully. There is no real crux to this climb, but if you've gotten through the first hundred feet you're probably on your way to the send. There used to be a loose flake in the pod about 80 feet up, but last checked it wasn't there. Make sure you have finger and thin-hand-size gear left after the last roof as the climb keeps going although difficulty eases. Set up a belay at the obvious shelf with finger-size pro. The scramble off is obvious from the belay. A photo of the route can be viewed if you click on the pic of the Turret on the Castle web page.


Locate the mountaineer's gully which is prominent thrashfest a few hundred feet right of the large open area where Throne Room and The Dungeon are located. At the entrance to the gully, the right wall has three cracks running through it. Rapunzal is the center, best-looking line. Scramble 10' up to a nice ledge and rope up there.

The crack to the right was done by Lou Bartell in early '90s and has long offwith stretches up high although you can do a short version and lower off some fixed slings rabbit runnered through a hole.


Wires, singles #0.3-0.5 Camalots, triples #0.75 Camalot, 4-5 #1 Camalot, 2-3 #2 Camalot, 1 #3 Camalot.

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By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Sep 18, 2009

Per Pat's Beta, I did this about 1998. Excellent long thin hands route with pro opportunity green Alien to blue Camalot. Medium to large nuts. A bit marred by the gully close by. The decent was a steep bushwhack.