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A Rusted Rapture
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 61
votes
Routes in 2. East End Wall
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A Rusted Rapture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Daywalker T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Death Dealer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Experimental Forrest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nightwalker T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Pack Mentality T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ultraviolet Ammunition T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick 2011 |
| Page Views: | 3,485 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A Rusted Rapture is a stunning pitch with bullet rock bottom to top. This varied line serves up everything from bouldery face climbing to splitter cracks, as well as, the classic little traverse out the roof. Its one of the better basalt pitches around at the grade, but there is little standard jamming on it.
On the east edge of the East End Wall rappel 90’ down to a suspended boulder and a two bolt belay. A # 3.5 in a pod at the top of the route will keep your rope from getting wedged in the crack.
The first 15' of climbing off the belay is fantastic and a bit bouldery as you follow an arching seam with just enough holds to keep it in the 5.10 range. The bolts are there because the entire flake that you start on rings hollow with a gentle tap of a hammer. Once you start plugging gear in the thin crack, be sure to take advantage of the best placements when you see them. Continue up the thin crack past several boulder problems to a break at mid height. Enjoy the next 35' of twin cracks which is like a really featured cousin of Torpedo at the Forks. The roof may look intimidating at first glance, but the traverse and turning the roof add up to be about 5.9+ climbing, and the exposure is heavenly... For a basalt canyon anyway.
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