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Rapture 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 1,022
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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In the middle of some wild climbing for the grade.

Description 

Rapture is a stunning pitch, and one of the better basalt pitches around at the grade. Rap down to suspended boulder at 90', fixed belay.

The first 15' of climbing off the belay is fantastic and bouldery, as you follow an arching seem with just enough holds to keep it in the V0+ range. Once you start plugging gear in the thin crack, be sure to take advantage of the best placements when you see them. Continue up the thin crack past several boulder problems to a break at mid height. Enjoy the next 35' of twin finger cracks which is like a really featured cousin of Torpedo at the Forks.

Though the roof may look intimidating at first glance, take the time to enjoy it, because with the huge foothold out on the right arete, and the gigantic rail in your hands. The traverse and turning the roof add up to be about 5.9 climbing, the exposure is heavenly... For a basalt canyon anyway.

Location 

Far climber's left of the East End Wall.

Protection 

Double set from #0 TCU through #.75 Camalot. A #1 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot (for the very last piece), small/ medium wires. Draws and several long runners.


Photos of Rapture Slideshow Add Photo
Corey Ellison finishing up Rapture, with Seth Dyer on the belay.
Corey Ellison finishing up Rapture, with Seth Dyer...
Plugging it in...
Plugging it in...
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Jeff G
Jeff G
Getting into it on the twin cracks.
Getting into it on the twin cracks.
Turning the lip of the roof on the FA.  Super classic 5.9 at this point.  John Burcham with an attentive belay down low. <br /> <br />All photos in this series by  <br />Wade Forrest
Turning the lip of the roof on the FA. Super clas...
Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
The twin cracks section.
The twin cracks section.
Nick Rhoads topping out Rapture
Nick Rhoads topping out Rapture

Comments on Rapture Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 7, 2013

Wonderful route with mix of thoughtful and hero climbing!
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Felt a touch soft for 10+ but a great pitch nun the less. The end will make you smile!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2013

Aye, we did it this morning for our warm up, and I didn't come across any .10+ either. Which almost makes it better...