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BETA PHOTO: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)
A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.
Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.
Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Bolted anchor.
Aaron Top-Roping Rapscallion
Trying to figure out how to pull the roof
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Really enjoyed this one - easy to set a toprope up on if you're not confident in the grade (we did - it was 12AM and none of us were exactly experts with finger cracks). It was a constant fight for the first 30-40 feet. Best piece of advice I got was use your entire body as much as possible - I smeared my ass all over that goddamned wall and it helped immensely.
Fell once pulling the second roof - you can get a shitty rest after the first but it's cramped and forced. Beta on the second was a bit tricky to figure out at night, but still a lot of fun. Highly recommended if you're into/want to be into cracks.
Aug 5, 2015
Contrary to the description I found the initial, steep finger crack, dihedral to be the crux. 25ft or so without a good rest, placing pro is strenuous here.