Rapscallion's Blues 5.10c
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984) |
| Submitted By: | DaveB on Jun 12, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)
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Description A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.
Location Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.
Protection Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Anchors.
| Comments on Rapscallion's Blues |
|
By Nathan Toothman
From: Mokuleia, HI
Sep 21, 2009
| I recall the top moves being wild and wonderful. |
By Alex A
Mar 27, 2010
| Great route, for me the crux was the 1st 10-15ft |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Dec 18, 2010
| I thought Four Sheets to the Wind was better. |
By Dan Brayack
From: Marmet, WV
Feb 10, 2011
| This one is kinda dangerous...couple people I know hurt their ankles on it...(they were fairly solid on 5.10 too.) |
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.11a
| Saw a bunch of bees up there today above the first roof while leading it. I know it's about to be cold, but still be weary of them. |
By Air Alexy
Apr 3, 2012
| This is not dangerous at all. It is as G-rated as it can get. Getting hurt on this would be a result of placing bad gear (leader error) or just terrible luck. The bottom is a little strenuous but it protects like a dream. Get on it. One of the best hard 10s at the New. |
By DJ Shalvey
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.11-
| I disagree, Air. The only pro around at the beginning of crux one was a tiny wire nut. At that point you gotta gun it through the crux to the jugs. A friend of mine fell there this weekend and jacked up his ankle. There was no error in his gear. |
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Climbed this yesterday and got 3 tcus to protect the bottom moves. 2 blue and 1 yellow. |
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