|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984)|
|Submitted By:||DaveB on Jun 12, 2007|
|Comments on Rapscallion's Blues||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Really enjoyed this one - easy to set a toprope up on if you're not confident in the grade (we did - it was 12AM and none of us were exactly experts with finger cracks). It was a constant fight for the first 30-40 feet. Best piece of advice I got was use your entire body as much as possible - I smeared my ass all over that goddamned wall and it helped immensely.
Fell once pulling the second roof - you can get a shitty rest after the first but it's cramped and forced. Beta on the second was a bit tricky to figure out at night, but still a lot of fun. Highly recommended if you're into/want to be into cracks.
Aug 5, 2015
|Contrary to the description I found the initial, steep finger crack, dihedral to be the crux. 25ft or so without a good rest, placing pro is strenuous here.|
By Alex Ch
From: Burlington, CT
Mar 25, 2016
|this climb is seriously incredible considering it's a short one. The move after the roof is ridiculous IMO and takes away from the charm.|