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BETA PHOTO: Rapper's Delight
Both pitches of the Another Friend route on the Upper 5.8 Wall trend left. The rappel lines are relatively plumb and this route is basically the 2nd rap-line off of the Another Friend route that drops you into the 5.8 gully. The climb is a much longer 5.8 trad route than those on the main 5.8 wall. 100' further up the same gully and a short and easy 10' scramble to a semi-flat belay station to the beginning of the climb. The route starts with a small roof (about 15' off the deck) and goes straight up the somewhat cracked face towards an obvious apex.
It's hard to imagine this hasn't been climbed before, but it doesn't show up in any of the guide books (or online) and a number of holds pulled off during our ascent. It's a great fun route that deserves more attention and will only get better with more traffic.
About 100' further up the gully from the main 5.8 wall. It takes a short and easy 10' scramble to a semi-flat belay station and the beginning of the route.
Mostly tricky small nuts and small cam placements (we used nothing larger than a .5 C4).