Rapn Solid Gold P1-2 -- Creekside, CCC

Can't help but think we could position those last 2 rap anchors better.

Put the P2 anchor down and climber's right just to the side of the big ledge -- it's a clean shot to P1 for the rope pull, put P1 anchor at the pod. It also gets these anchors off the climbing face, not to mention a much better belay position as for the pod.

Doesn't both Monty's new route and the established Solid Gold P3 make it rapping to the big ledge at P2, no problem (w/ a 60M)?

Not sure if I smell what your cooking up there buff. Did you use the higher anchor to rap on top of p2? It's kinda uncomfortable to feed the rope through, but havnt noticed any other issues.

not really cooking up anything, just seeing what the feeling is about this; seems to me it could be a better way to do the crag.

i agree the pod would be a better belay for end of P1. i have belayed there before off of one bolt and maybe a piece of gear, slingshotting through the existing belay anchors... maybe talk to Richard of this idea.

Richard Wright has always been receptive to constructive adeas about his routes. I'd also encourage you to contact him directly and see what he has to say about it. There may be a reason why he did what he did, or perhaps he'll tell you to have at a change if he agrees.

pitch 1 belay option:

a couple aliens, bolt as upward pull:

option to slingshot through existing rap anchor:


there are plenty more gear opportunities than what i used, ranging from finger size pieces to #2 camalot. makes for a very comfortable belay ledge, just 10 feet below the uncomfortable hanging belay!

the reason Richard did not have the belay here, is that a 60m rope would not make it from the rap from P2. 70m ropes werent common back then.

WiledHorse wrote: the reason Richard did not have the belay here, is that a 60m rope would not make it from the rap from P2. 70m ropes werent common back then.

If you put the rap anchor at P2 down and climber's right of the big ledge, wouldn't that solve the problem?

I mean reaching the big ledge not an issue with the first set of raps off of Solid Gold; any of those routes can rap to the big ledge with a single 60, correct?

Mark Nelson wrote: If you put the rap anchor at P2 down and climber's right of the big ledge, wouldn't that solve the problem? I mean reaching the big ledge not an issue with the first set of raps off of Solid Gold; any of those routes can rap to the big ledge with a single 60, correct?

i think that is correct Mark... that flat rock ledge just below the P2 big ledge would be nice too (unless thats the one you are talking about). if there were to be an alteration, i would say, 1)Richard should weigh in on it, and 2)existing rap anchors should be removed (there is already two on the big ledge).

No problem & to reiterate, what we're discussing isn't the climbing portions of these routes, we're talking descent anchors; though if anything, the climbing sections would be cleaned up.

Mark Nelson wrote:No problem & to reiterate, what we're discussing isn't the climbing portions of these routes, we're talking descent anchors; though if anything, the climbing sections would be cleaned up.

oh! sorry a bit slow.