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Thin Air Face
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Rapid Transit 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 260'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 2,365
Submitted By: jeremyadams on Feb 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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EMS guide Dave Lottman on the last pitch.

Description 

Tricky, cruxy slab climbing with well-spaced fixed gear: it's Rapid Transit, and it's a great route to get your heart pumping. That said, the crux is well-protected by a shiny bolt.


Location 

Begin by sprinting up p1 of Thin Air to the bong anchors. Trend up and left through the crux, then further left to a ledge for belay. Pitch two is more mellow at 5.9.


Protection 

Some fixed gear, well-spaced. Bring a light rack for between the bolts and pins.



Photos of Rapid Transit Slideshow Add Photo
Steve Thunstrom on the crux pitch.
Steve Thunstrom on the crux pitch.
My brother Dan just past the crux on pitch 1 of Rapid Transit and my dad Ernie leading pitch 1 of Thin Air in the lower right corner...
My brother Dan just past the crux on pitch 1 of Ra...
Chris finishing up the 5.9 traverse. Photo: Jeff Longcor,2010
Chris finishing up the 5.9 traverse. Photo: Jeff L...
jeff climbing rocks
jeff climbing rocks
Another shot of Casey and Friend... nice job on the crux lead "friend" (sorry, didnt catch your name)
Another shot of Casey and Friend... nice job on th...
my brother dan crimpin hard on the crux of pitch 2 on Rapid Transit
my brother dan crimpin hard on the crux of pitch 2...
Chris Graham and Bob Ahearn glad to be through the crux pitch. Photo: Jeff Longcor, 2010
Chris Graham and Bob Ahearn glad to be through the...
Casey Bald and partner on Rapid... Nice running in to you Casey...
Casey Bald and partner on Rapid... Nice running in...
looking down at the tin air face from the overlook... jeff and jared on rapid transit and someone on thin air...
looking down at the tin air face from the overlook...
Comments on Rapid Transit Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 30, 2008

i just got around to climbing this route today and i find it worthy of a detailed description...

Pitch 1: Climb thr first pitch of thin air to the bong anchor, clip it and head straight up to a bolt above... At the bolt angle left to the right side of a wide ledge... There is a pin on the ledge. Heading up from here at about 5.8 you clip another bolt and things get tricky fast so rope drag could be a problem, i recommend long slings on everything up to here... The holds get thin and you need to figure a way to the bolt above i hear that staying right of the bolt is the easier way but i couldnt figure it out so i went left and up on a hard slabby mantel move to gain a horizontal crack and that bolt you wanted... traverse left on slopey feet to a few easy mantel moves and the 2 bolt anchor...

Pitch 2: Much more straight forward in line and route finding... From the belay head up past a pin to the small overlap above... Pull the move to get over it (the best move on the route i think) and follow a few bolts to another steep section... Crimp through a few tricky moves and head left and up to the anchor... Rap from here or head over and finish up Miss Saigon (5.8+)

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
May 3, 2010

Hey Brendan, I did it again this weekend. Between the bong belay and first crux bolt there is a bolt, hidden piton in a corner, and a good pin scar taking the bite out of most of that run out.

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 3, 2010

f/a Webster/Winkler I'm pretty sure.

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Oct 10, 2010

Onsighted this one today...only took me 25 years to try it!! I can totally see why (lol). Fantastic route!

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Aug 4, 2013

Realistically, how bad are the runouts on this?

By Jcomeau
From: Hopkinton, MA
Sep 7, 2013

I onsighted this a few weekends ago. There is no pin on the wide ledge, at least I couldnt find it. There is a cam tho.