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Rap Bolters from Hell 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Terry Andrews and Russell Dutnell
Page Views: 2,360
Submitted By: adampeters on Dec 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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My lost dome at Lost Dome. Staring straight at Ra...

  • This area is designated as Charon MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb up 15 feet or so to the first bolt, may want to have a spot, then begin a series of crimps to gain the second bolt. Move up and right and clip the third bolt from a mini-jug. Just past the third bolt is the crux; move through this section to clip a fixed pin and then clip the last bolt and mantle to the chains.

    One of the best routes anywhere!

    Location 

    Right up the middle of the formation, just to the left of the water streak.

    Protection 

    Bolts, 5 QDs


    Photos of Rap Bolters from Hell Slideshow Add Photo
    Steven Charles on Rap Bolters From Hell, 12a, Lost Dome, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge.
    BETA PHOTO: Steven Charles on Rap Bolters From Hell, 12a, Lost...
    Matt King on Rap Bolters from Hell <br /> <br />Photo: Ryan Ray
    Matt King on Rap Bolters from Hell

    Photo: Ryan Ra...

    Comments on Rap Bolters from Hell Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jordan Ramey
    From: Calgary, Alberta
    Jan 31, 2007

    This climb was bolted on rap and therefore many of the clips are very strenuous.

    Edit: Ahh, maybe cause I'm short the clips seem hard. I TR'ed it and tried to make the clips then and found them hard.
    By adampeters
    From: Golden, Colorado
    Feb 19, 2007

    My bad, maybe I had a few too many beers when I submitted that, all in all, a great route! Actually, the bolts are well placed on this route from decent stances. The only one that may be semi-strenous is the second bolt, but you still have pretty good feet there too. The first bolt can be clipped off of the crimp in the A-frame shaped mini roof right below the bolt (harder), or you can layback a slopey sidepull to the left and get higher feet, this makes that clip much easier. The third bolt you can clip off the mini jug rest right before the crux move and then the pin and the remaining bolts are clipped off jugs, only problem is you are getting a little pumped at this time. Anyway, Terry did a great job bolting this route and it remains one of my favorite anywhere.
    By steven charles
    Oct 31, 2008

    Great route! I had to work on it for quite a while to get down my beta. Well protected, however, IMHO, the first bolt is a little sketch, more due to the landing than anything else. Make sure your belayer has paid his dues spotting and can keep you safe if you peel. I thought there were a couple cruxes, between the second and fourth bolt, separated by the mini jug adam mentioned. The top mantle is no joke either. Man I'm psyched about this route. You know, there are routes you do once, check it off your list and you're happy to move on. Not this one, I'll do it over and over. Great route!
    By Daniel S
    From: Oklahoma City
    May 28, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    This route was my first 5.12 red point, indoor or out. Once worked, I found all clips to be secure and well placed. The trick was finding the right feet placements that took some experimentation. Great climb with awesome moves. Don't blow the mantel at the top.
    By Gehrig
    Mar 8, 2013

    Despite having the opening moves wired, I chose to stick clip the first bolt as insurance against ankle-snappage. The last portion, moving up past the mantle, was pretty exciting.

    If you like the last portion of Rap Bolters, I recommend climbing further up the slab to the second set of chains - I chose to do the continuation, and it was crazy!! Two bolts covering the first 20 feet or so, then something like a 50 foot runout over very thin, subtle edges and nubs, maybe hard 10 / easy 11, gradually easing to the anchors. It was psychologically challenging.