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Routes in Stora Vaggen
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Catch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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I Andra Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Prismaster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rapé T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Vad Är Otid? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rikard Heman, Per Calleberg, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Lisa Montgomery on Jul 10, 2014 |
| Admins: | Michael Sullivan, Gunkswest, Ian M |
Description
A fun route that climbs the obvious right facing dihedral to the right of Prismaster. Though it is possible to climb the route in one pitch, it is advised to break it up into two pitches in order to keep your rope from getting stuck in a crack.
P1: Start by following a blocky weakness for about 15 feet then traverse left 10 feet. Step back right and surmount the steep crack. Belay on a large sloping ledge (5.10- 40ft)
P2: From the belay, climb up the thin crack with some tricky face climbing. Gain the dihedral and follow it for another 70 feet until you get to a ledge where you have two options: continue straight up (contrived 5.11-) or traverse hard right (5.10-). Belay above from a tree at the top of the cliff (5.10+, 140ft).
Walk off to the left (toward the road and railroad tracks).
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