Ranklands of Perfidy
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Halfway up on a bright sunny Feb. day.
Climb the dirty crack over a roof skipping the first bolt. This bolt is useless and unnecessary as there is a great cam placement approximately 4 inches from the bolt. Continue up to the second roof. Climb this on the left, 10a, or around to the right (easier). Continue up the crack system until another bolt is encountered. Again this bolt is completely unneccesary. Place an Alien right next to the bolt, and climb a quick crux (9). Exit the crack, and find yourself on the slab.
The first time I led this, I place gear to protect my second and traversed across the slab to the right to the LAJ
anchor and rappeled. The second time that I led this I went straight up the slab for a few feet, placed marginal gear, did a mantle (10a poor pro), then traversed straight left to the bolt anchor at the top of P1 of A Long December
From there, we climbed out to the left of the ALD
anchor and climbed the twin seam/cracks up the left margin of the slab (p2 of Caesar's
crack) to the anchor at the top of p2 of A Long December
. The twin seam/crack is a very nice trad pitch. The bolts on p2 of ALD
are just to the right when climbing this crack system, but wanting to do a trad lead, I ingnored them. Doing Ranklands this way makes for a very enjoyable 2 pitch 10a trad outing.
Ranklands does not have the greatest rock at the base but the holds that look chossy are suprisingly solid. It is not a destination climb by any means but worth doing once when visiting the December Wall.
Find this route about 20 feet or so to the left of Life after James
(good pix of this on this website). Identify this as the dirty crack system with a bolt at the base.
A regular full trad rack will suffice for this pitch.
By George K. Watson
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 8, 2010
When I first climbed this in the late '80s, there were no bolts placed/in place anywhere in the vicinity.
I did this with Norman Boles, and though it appears as though many of the natural routes in this area may have been previously done, we initially claimed it.
We originally called it 'Ranklands of Perfidy' and since we are in general, using the names myself and my partners gave to these various little lines, it should probably be corrected.
I did install a rap route on the crag at one point, but these are the only bolts myself and my partners ever drilled here. Everything else was added later.
From: Pinewood Springs
Mar 24, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Although a little dirt is at the bottom moves, this route is actually very good, with just the right amount thrill and protection except at the top of the first pitch. Not too easy not too hard.
The crack at the run-out top could use a little cleaning for a RP back-up. I was able to get in a 0 or 00 small cam. I agree the lower bolt placement is rather odd, but I was happy to clip the upper bolt.