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The Loaf
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Ranger Ron 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Sport, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Strassman, Carroll, Curtis, & Kates
Page Views: 1,662
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 23, 2008
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"Ranger Ron".
Photo by Blitzo.

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Description 

Awesome, high angle face climbing on edges. Sustained, exposed, and well-protected...what more could you ask for?

There is a slabby crux around the 10th bolt (maybe 5.8). Otherwise the route is sustained 5.7 with a variety of different cruxes.


Location 

Start in a flaired crack/gully that goes up and right. Step up and left onto the face and climb through two small overhangs. The upper part of the route climbs just left of an obvious, pale water streak. See photo


Protection 

14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rappel chains.



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By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Nearly every bolt on this route was under drilled. As such, many of the 3/8" Rawls protrude from their holes and have space between the hanger and the rock (up to 1/8").

By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 28, 2008

Yeah the bolt job is pretty shoddy. Lots of spinners add to the spice. And sometimes the bolts don't seem in the right place making the route finding important. Otherwise a fine route. Though I was climbing with one arm I'd still say drop the + in the 7 and just go ahead and call it a 5.8.

By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
May 14, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Hmmmm...with the likes of Marty Lewis and Raliegh Collins rating this climb at 5.8, I'll add to that concensus. If you're uncertain on the overall feel of the route, then try the direct start instead of going up the ramp to the right. Harder than 5.8 from that point.

By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Feb 27, 2012

Not as good as I expected, seemed a bit hard for 5.8. It was also cold and windy, Belaying at the top was freezing, and the wind swung our ropes all over the place.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Very enjoyable climbing with minor crux 3/4 way up the wall. Didn't seem particularly more/less difficult than the same area of Pangborn. Similar climbing, perhaps even appearing slightly more difficult than Pangborn as its more sustained.

Mussy hook anchors. Requires 2 ropes, see comments on other routes for two leader rope trick.