Randy Moss V5-6
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| Type: | Boulder, 1 pitch, 12 feet |
| Consensus: | V5+ [details] |
| FA: | |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | fall |
| Submitted By: | GarrettM on Nov 8, 2008 |
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dave cote working Randy Moss
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Description This is a recently cleaned route the uphill side of the barn door boulder. Im sure it has been done years back but this is a great new one to try. This thing is a slopers paradise. Start on 2 crimps with at waist height with feet on the block. move up to upper slopers and start workingn right up the blunt arete. there is a gaston that works as a good pinch (just finding the right way to hold this is the crux). move up to crappy tooth pinch in the crack on the face and bump up to another high sloper. this leads to the second crux. if you are tall enough you can reach up way right from this and grab the jug on the top out, but if you dont have the reach, or if you havnt moved your feet up high enough along the arete, i found you have to back hand an iron cross to a dish and move from it to the top out (HUGE MOVE!) good topout jug and feet for it
Location on the backside of the barndoor boulder. look for the mossy, blute arete that moves up left till it gets steep. start it just right of a corner in the middle of the face.
Protection spotter, pad
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 24, 2008
rating: V5
| I really believe that with a few more ascents and a little bit of publicity this could become a Rumney classic, it is a different style of route for the bouldering in the Rumney area, because it is a pure slopey route and that is very different for the pound. |
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
Mar 3, 2010
| So I noticed that a foothold had broken off near the start sometime last winter. Ive tried every combination but by the 3rd move i get stuck without it. I havnt been able to sent it since but the broken flake definatly increased the grade |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 23, 2013
rating: V5
| This route has changed since the description was written, the sharks tooth hold is no longer there, one of the start crimps broke leaving the start different and the foot Garrett mentions above. So here is a newer updated description to go along with the one above:
Sit start with the two crimps and move up to the next good crimp with your left, from there traverse out right using the slopers and the gaston crimp to reach a big positive sloper 2/3's up the arete. Now here is the crux, get your feet situated and match a little crimp, pull hard and stick the jug horn at the top, finish off the easy top out.
I think the route climbs better now, post breakages. Now is in a very solid state and I don't foresee any more exfoliation in its near future. Climb this route. |
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