This is the easiest route on Piz Ciavazes. It begins right of the Kleine Micheluzzi, past another alcove/gully system. Start is marked following local traditions. The 10 pitches are pretty uniform in difficulty, but slightly easier towards the top and the Gamsband. The climbing is mostly around 5.5-5.6. Pitch 6 is the "crux."
This route lies to the right of Kleine Micheluzzi. Directions to that route should be consulted for the approach. Descend via the Gamsband path to Sellajoch. Some fixed lines and stanchions assist in the descent.
Bolt belays, and many fixed pitons. Bring runners and normal Alpine rack.
Early season bergschrund crux at the start of the ...
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Good route on good rock. Just follow the lighter colored (aka polished) rock. We did this in 3 pitches with some simul climbing due to marginal weather.
This route probably deserves a R rating. Gear is sparse, even through the steeper sections.