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Rampage 
West Ridge 

Rampage 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Burdo, Greg White (1984)
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Bryan G on Aug 1, 2013
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Description 

Rampage follows a large corner system on the right side of the main face. It's in the shade until afternoon. The cruxes on pitches 2 and 3 are short lived and easy to pull through if you need to, and overall I'd say this climb is pretty mellow for a 5.10 on alpine rock. Approach by hiking most of the way to the Burgundy Col, and then cutting right across a very loose slope to gain the left end of an obvious ledge system. Follow this ledge system to the right, to the base of the corner.

Pitch 1 has several options and can be a little confusing because there are multiple corner systems. On the approach, identify the "triangle roof" (actually more of a square roof) on pitch 2 and use this to orient yourself so you end up in the right corner.

Pitch 2 is the standout pitch with stellar rock quality. Climb the steepening corner to the small roof. Above the roof are a couple long moves between fingerlocks and this is the crux. It helps to either be tall or have very small fingers.

Pitch 3 is short climbs a detached flake in the corner before stepping out to a crack system on the left-hand wall. The rock gets more grainy here but the climbing is still fun.

For the final pitch you want to trend a bit to the right and there are several options here which are mostly all easy.

Descend by scrambling the Class 3 ridge towards the North Face of Burgundy Spire. Some downclimbing is required on precariously stacked blocks and flakes. From the sandy ledge many parties link this route with the N Face of Burgundy, otherwise make two 30m rappels down the rubble-filled gully to the left.


Protection 

Pro to 4"



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