This route is a good choice if you want to climb on some really wild overhanging features. At one point on the route you have the choice of grabbing a crimp, a tufa, or a pile of poo.
Crank a hard start off the ground. Then traverse 20 feet on spooky crusty holds. A bouldery crux awaits you at the anchors. Some trickery, such as a kneebar may help you through this section.
This route is at the southern tip of the mudpile. It will be the first route to the right of the severely overhanging "cave" routes.
Bolts and fixed biners on the anchors
|By Corey McCarthy|
From: Redmond, OR
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I put a couple of ladies on this route the other day and was chastised for not informing them of the severe sharpness of the holds on the bottom third of the route, apparently I have thick skin. But in all seriousness it is way sharper than any other rock I've touched in the park, so just be advised. The top does make up for the lackluster start though.