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Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)

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Basilisk Wall 
Good Book Wall, The 
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Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)  


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Location: 41.1423, -74.1617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,416
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Theobald on Jun 14, 2013
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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Description 

Opened for climbing in May 2013 thanks to the members of the Torne Valley Climbers' Coalition. Located on the SE side of the Torne Mountain in Ramapo, NY, there are many many boulders and short climbs. An short local guidebook already has over 300 boulder problems and about 50 short climbs.

Please be sure you fill out a yearly waiver that is available at The Gravity Vault Indoor Rock Gyms or Rock and Snow.

Since the area is still under development, only the most popular walls and climbs are added to mountain project. In the mean time, an informal "guidebook" of FA's and beta is being posted in the Facebook Group "Powerlinez - Beta Shed". Please reference the group for more detailed information and communication with the TVCC.

The rock is characterized as sharp and gritty gneiss. Many of the holds can be sharp as razors, so be sure to tape up for any crack climbs. The top outs are notoriously heart-pounding and heady. Always packed with slopers that just don't feel confident, toping out is a head game at the Powerlinez.

Orange blazes will get you around most of the area. If you cannot see any tape or blazes on trees, please use the herd paths/the path of least resistance. Access is still sensitive here and we want to be able to keep this open. Please do not create any new trails. A couple popular bouldering areas have become devoid of leaves and lead to soil compaction. Please be aware of this and do your best to rake leaves back onto the area where you just climbed!

Much of the area's less popular walls are either short rope walls or high-ball boulder problems. Pick your poison.

Bolting is illegal at the Powerlinez. To set up top ropes you will benefit from a long static line and using trees. Some tops of the walls provide cracks for gear anchors, but they are not usually ideal. Stick to your static rope. The Good Book Wall is the only section with sport climbs and currently contains only two bolted anchors. If something doesn't have fixed gear and isn't blank - it can probably be led on trad gear.

There are a couple rap stations at the Powerlinez, mostly on the Tower Wall and Three Bears Wall. Please carefully inspect any sling salads before trusting them - their age can be questionable. As development increases, the safety of these rap stations will also increase, but just like any climbing venture, proper inspection is just a good habit to get into.

Any question, please direct to the Powerlinez Beta Shed FB group! In the mean time, get your waiver signed, be safe and have fun! Let's take advantage of this awesome area close to home and preserve the area as it's meant to be!

Getting There 

The Powerlinez Access Path
intersection of Torne Brook/Torne Valley Rd, Ramapo NY.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

58 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',7],['5.8',10],['5.9',14],['5.10',10],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley):
Papa Bear   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Three Bears Wall
The Red Knob   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Rachel's Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Harpoon Me   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
The Contortionist   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
Whalehunter   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
No Rest for the Wicked   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Rachel   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Good Book Wall
The Sins of the Son   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Good Book Wall
Rebecca   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Good Book Wall
Browse More Classics in Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)

Featured Route For Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)
Projecting Hashtag Swag Yolo. The belayer is Justin who eventually made the FA.

Hashtag, Swag, Yolo 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : Basilisk Wall
Super classic route - fun moves, great pump, good (sometimes marginal) holds, and worth all the effort!Climb up the center of the obvious black streak on the left side of the Basilisk wall on razor holds. Some holds include a half moon and a chicken head. Avoid the moss at the top to the left and top out....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley) Slideshow Add Photo
The Basilisk Wall
The Basilisk Wall

Comments on Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Elan Trybuch
Jun 17, 2013
Trad climbing. 4-5 bolted routes for sport. Ample anchors set up with new slings and wrap rings. Climb responsibly, check, and double check all equipment, anchor and belay stations.
By Stephen Becker
Sep 15, 2013
Is this the same area as this MP page ? If so, is it possible to merge the pages?
By David S
Sep 30, 2013
Is someone able to direct me to this rough guidebook?
Thanks
By Norm3
From: North Jersey
Oct 12, 2013
Hi everyone,

Guidebooks are available at The Gravity Vault in Upper Saddle River, NJ which is on the way to the powerlinez as you're coming up from the south.

Rock and Snow, NJ Rock Gym and some other outdoor retailers may carry them as well.

Many Gravity Vault employees are pretty well versed on the Powerlinez, so please call with any questions. We are all stewards of this new area and would love to see it open for many years to come!
By Michael L.
May 30, 2014
Any chance any of you USR Gravity Vault employees can send a few guidebooks down to the Middletown GV? Same goes for the waivers that we're supposed to sign?
By kenr
Jun 18, 2014
Basilisk Wall:

getting there: Go to the bottom of Tower Wall, then continue west on the same level past Three Bears and Daves Wall. Then past the right turn for the trail uphill to Good Book Wall. Then fairly flat and roughly west past the various "Lenapehocking" boulders, until you see something that matches the photos in the Crefeld guidebook. Basilisk Right is reasonably clean rock with lots of crack features. Past that is some lichen-covered rock. Then a fairly clean face with a vertical fault which lies between a dark streak and a pair of dark water-streaks -- that's Basilisk Left.

Basilisk Right
... GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.14566 W74.16766)
(sorry I don't have the guidebook names available to me, and some of the lines are not in the guidebook.)
The climbing lines are short but interesting. We did them with TR anchor on static line from trees above.
  • Right-most crack (? 5.6+) which finishes just R of a tree which could be used as directional for 2nd crack - (TR with gear directional)
  • 2nd crack from Right (? 5.8) - (TR with directional sling from tree)
  • face variation squeezed between 2nd and 3rd cracks (? 5.10, could be made harder by eliminating certain holds near one of the cracks)
  • 3rd short crack with arete above (? 5.9) - (TR with directional sling from tree)

There's a 5.8 overhang farther to the L (west) - (look for chalk ?) - haven't done it yet.

Also there's space for other routes between Right and Left -- see ideas and projects and accomplishments on the Powerlinez - Beta Shed facebook group.

Basilisk Left
... GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.14579 W74.16805)
  • Crefeld guidebook says there's a boulder traverse problem using the roughly-horizontal feature starting near the R-hand dark streak.
  • the non-dirty face between the dark water-streaks with the vertical fault might have some TR climb, but it would be like at least 5.11+ (Has someone actually succeeded in completing something here?)

  • Far Left. Heard a rumor that there's a nice TR face climb (? 5.10-11) to the Left of the twin dark water-streaks.

Note that the flat area not far from the bottom of the cliff can be swampy -- so think about insect protection (or avoidance at times of likely high insect activity)