Opened for climbing in May 2013 thanks to the members of the Torne Valley Climbers' Coalition. Located on the SE side of the Torne Mountain in Ramapo, NY, there are many many boulders and short climbs. An short local guidebook already has over 300 boulder problems and about 50 short climbs.
Please be sure you fill out a yearly waiver that is available at The Gravity Vault Indoor Rock Gyms or Rock and Snow.
Since the area is still under development, only the most popular walls and climbs are added to mountain project. In the mean time, an informal "guidebook" of FA's and beta is being posted in the Facebook Group "Powerlinez - Beta Shed". Please reference the group for more detailed information and communication with the TVCC.
The rock is characterized as sharp and gritty gneiss. Many of the holds can be sharp as razors, so be sure to tape up for any crack climbs. The top outs are notoriously heart-pounding and heady. Always packed with slopers that just don't feel confident, toping out is a head game at the Powerlinez.
Orange blazes will get you around most of the area. If you cannot see any tape or blazes on trees, please use the herd paths/the path of least resistance. Access is still sensitive here and we want to be able to keep this open. Please do not create any new trails. A couple popular bouldering areas have become devoid of leaves and lead to soil compaction. Please be aware of this and do your best to rake leaves back onto the area where you just climbed!
Much of the area's less popular walls are either short rope walls or high-ball boulder problems. Pick your poison.
Bolting is illegal at the Powerlinez. To set up top ropes you will benefit from a long static line and using trees. Some tops of the walls provide cracks for gear anchors, but they are not usually ideal. Stick to your static rope. The Good Book Wall is the only section with sport climbs and currently contains only two bolted anchors. If something doesn't have fixed gear and isn't blank - it can probably be led on trad gear.
There are a couple rap stations at the Powerlinez, mostly on the Tower Wall and Three Bears Wall. Please carefully inspect any sling salads before trusting them - their age can be questionable. As development increases, the safety of these rap stations will also increase, but just like any climbing venture, proper inspection is just a good habit to get into.
Any question, please direct to the Powerlinez Beta Shed FB group! In the mean time, get your waiver signed, be safe and have fun! Let's take advantage of this awesome area close to home and preserve the area as it's meant to be!
The Powerlinez Access Path intersection of Torne Brook/Torne Valley Rd, Ramapo NY.
Hard moves up to first bolt using tiny crack to ledge. Follow bolt line using small edges and crimps to under cling 3/4 of the way up. So negative holds bring you past last bolt to traverse right to anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in NY
getting there: Go to the bottom of Tower Wall, then continue west on the same level past Three Bears and Daves Wall. Then past the right turn for the trail uphill to Good Book Wall. Then fairly flat and roughly west past the various "Lenapehocking" boulders, until you see something that matches the photos in the Crefeld guidebook. Basilisk Right is reasonably clean rock with lots of crack features. Past that is some lichen-covered rock. Then a fairly clean face with a vertical fault which lies between a dark streak and a pair of dark water-streaks -- that's Basilisk Left.
Basilisk Right ... GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.14566 W74.16766) (sorry I don't have the guidebook names available to me, and some of the lines are not in the guidebook.) The climbing lines are short but interesting. We did them with TR anchor on static line from trees above.
Right-most crack (? 5.6+) which finishes just R of a tree which could be used as directional for 2nd crack - (TR with gear directional)
2nd crack from Right (? 5.8) - (TR with directional sling from tree)
face variation squeezed between 2nd and 3rd cracks (? 5.10, could be made harder by eliminating certain holds near one of the cracks)
3rd short crack with arete above (? 5.9) - (TR with directional sling from tree)
There's a 5.8 overhang farther to the L (west) - (look for chalk ?) - haven't done it yet.
Also there's space for other routes between Right and Left -- see ideas and projects and accomplishments on the Powerlinez - Beta Shed facebook group.
Basilisk Left ... GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.14579 W74.16805)
Crefeld guidebook says there's a boulder traverse problem using the roughly-horizontal feature starting near the R-hand dark streak.
the non-dirty face between the dark water-streaks with the vertical fault might have some TR climb, but it would be like at least 5.11+ (Has someone actually succeeded in completing something here?)
Far Left. Heard a rumor that there's a nice TR face climb (? 5.10-11) to the Left of the twin dark water-streaks.
Note that the flat area not far from the bottom of the cliff can be swampy -- so think about insect protection (or avoidance at times of likely high insect activity)