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Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)

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Basilisk Wall 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.1423, -74.1617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,120
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Theobald on Jun 14, 2013  with updates from kenr
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Description 

Opened for climbing in May 2013 thanks to the members of the Torne Valley Climbers' Coalition. Located on the SE side of the Torne Mountain in Ramapo, NY, there are many many boulders and short climbs. An short local guidebook already has over 300 boulder problems and about 50 short climbs.

Please be sure you fill out a yearly waiver that is available at The Gravity Vault Indoor Rock Gyms or Rock and Snow.

Since the area is still under development, only the most popular walls and climbs are added to mountain project. In the mean time, an informal "guidebook" of FA's and beta is being posted in the Facebook Group "Powerlinez - Beta Shed". Please reference the group for more detailed information and communication with the TVCC.

The rock is characterized as sharp and gritty gneiss. Many of the holds can be sharp as razors, so be sure to tape up for any crack climbs. The top outs are notoriously heart-pounding and heady. Always packed with slopers that just don't feel confident, toping out is a head game at the Powerlinez.

Orange blazes will get you around most of the area. If you cannot see any tape or blazes on trees, please use the herd paths/the path of least resistance. Access is still sensitive here and we want to be able to keep this open. Please do not create any new trails. A couple popular bouldering areas have become devoid of leaves and lead to soil compaction. Please be aware of this and do your best to rake leaves back onto the area where you just climbed!

Much of the area's less popular walls are either short rope walls or high-ball boulder problems. Pick your poison.

Bolting is illegal at the Powerlinez. To set up top ropes you will benefit from a long static line and using trees. Some tops of the walls provide cracks for gear anchors, but they are not usually ideal. Stick to your static rope. The Good Book Wall is the only section with sport climbs and currently contains only two bolted anchors. If something doesn't have fixed gear and isn't blank - it can probably be led on trad gear.

There are a couple rap stations at the Powerlinez, mostly on the Tower Wall and Three Bears Wall. Please carefully inspect any sling salads before trusting them - their age can be questionable. As development increases, the safety of these rap stations will also increase, but just like any climbing venture, proper inspection is just a good habit to get into.

Any question, please direct to the Powerlinez Beta Shed FB group! In the mean time, get your waiver signed, be safe and have fun! Let's take advantage of this awesome area close to home and preserve the area as it's meant to be!

Getting There 

The Powerlinez Access Path
Intersection of Torne Brook/Torne Valley Rd, Ramapo NY.

Driving from New York City or New Jersey or PA: Go to the giant interchange of routes NY Thruway 87, 287, and 17 near Suffern NY. Exit onto rt 17 North, which immediately goes into a traffic light. Turn sharp Right on rt 59 South for about 0.5 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Driving from NY state coming from the North: NY Thruway (I-87) south to exit 15A for rt 17 North + rt 59, Sloatsburg + Suffern. Exit to the right, go 0.1 mile curving right to reach a T intersection. Turn Right (NorthEast) and go about 0.2 mile to another T intersection. Turn Right (South) and go about 0.4 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.

Park by some 10-15 ft wide wire fence enclosures (sometimes called "the vents") and a green manhole cover, on the left (west) side of the road --
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1415 W74.1618)
This is about 100 yards before (south from) the left turn for Torne Brook Rd. If you reach the entrance for the waste management facility on the right, you've gone too far.

Walking - From the parking, walk North 100 yards on Torne Valley Rd. Turn left (West) on Torne Brook Rd and walk 50 yards across new bridge over creek. Turn right (North) onto dirt road uphill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

88 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',17],['5.7',9],['5.8',19],['5.9',22],['5.10',12],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley):
Papa Bear   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'   Three Bears Wall
The Red Knob   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Johnson Route   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Rachel's Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Ogre Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
Harpoon Me   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
The Contortionist   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
Whalehunter   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
No Rest for the Wicked   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 90'   The Tower Wall
The Nephalim   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Good Book Wall
Rachel   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Good Book Wall
The Sins of the Son   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Good Book Wall
Rebecca   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Good Book Wall
Browse More Classics in Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)

Featured Route For Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)
Some TR action on SotS

The Sins of the Son 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NY : Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va... : The Good Book Wall
Hard moves up to first bolt using tiny crack to ledge. Follow bolt line using small edges and crimps to under cling 3/4 of the way up. So negative holds bring you past last bolt to traverse right to anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley) Slideshow Add Photo
The Basilisk Wall
The Basilisk Wall
electric power towers with Tower Wall beyond - Whe...
electric power towers with Tower Wall beyond - Whe...

Comments on Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Elan Trybuch
Jun 17, 2013
Trad climbing. 4-5 bolted routes for sport. Ample anchors set up with new slings and wrap rings. Climb responsibly, check, and double check all equipment, anchor and belay stations.
By Stephen Becker
Sep 15, 2013
Is this the same area as this MP page ? If so, is it possible to merge the pages?
By David S
Sep 30, 2013
Is someone able to direct me to this rough guidebook?
Thanks
By Norm3
From: North Jersey
Oct 12, 2013
Hi everyone,

Guidebooks are available at The Gravity Vault in Upper Saddle River, NJ which is on the way to the powerlinez as you're coming up from the south.

Rock and Snow, NJ Rock Gym and some other outdoor retailers may carry them as well.

Many Gravity Vault employees are pretty well versed on the Powerlinez, so please call with any questions. We are all stewards of this new area and would love to see it open for many years to come!
By Michael L.
May 30, 2014
Any chance any of you USR Gravity Vault employees can send a few guidebooks down to the Middletown GV? Same goes for the waivers that we're supposed to sign?
By Kimberley Rothacker
From: Cliffwood Beach, New Jersey
Oct 12, 2014
posted it in the forum but i want to make sure this gets out. My boyfriend found a pair of LaSportivas at the bottom of the three bears walls. If you can tell us the size/color/model we will figure out a way to get them back to their owner.
By David S
Oct 20, 2014
Was climbing at Little Bear/Papa Bear this Sunday March 19th and found a mismatched (seems a half/whole size different) pair of climbing shoes. Two different brands/shoes. One of the lasts on one seem to be separating so not sure if they were left there intentionally. Let me know if you left them. Providing the type of each shoe will do and they're yours. PM me.