Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Below The Old New Place
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 
Color of My Potion 
Fat Boys Don't Fly 
Flesh-Eating Gnats 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 
Greg Shredder 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus 
Inflight Movie 
Instant Dogma 
L Dopa 
Little Shop Of Horrors 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 
Manic Nirvana 
Monsterpiece Theatre 
Oscar de La Cholla 
Pathogenic Cysts 
Polyester Terror 
Putterman Cracks 
Ralph's Dilemma 
Ralph's Leisure Suit 
Ralph's Revenge 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) 
Route 1 
Route 22 
Route 24 
Route 25 
Route 26 
Route 27 
Route 31 
Route 32 
Sardonic Smile 
Scandanavian Airlines 
Strong Urge to Fly 
Wailing Banshees 

Ralph's Leisure Suit 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Cam Burns, Jean Delataillade, 1990
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Another fine 12a on the left end of BTONP. There are 5 5.12a's within 15 feet of each other--a true sport climber's paradise! This one begins in the large dihedral before breaking out left onto the slabby face, with a long runout to the first bolt. Good crimping and sweet pockets lead up the narrowing wall to the crux section at the 4th bolt (and a difficult clip).

At this point the devil on your shoulder will try to lure you out left to the splitter hand crack and an eternity of 5.11c regret. If the angel prevails, head right and up via some thin, rounded crimps and sequential pockets, eventually heading back left to a large, heavily chalked crimp (visible from the ground). Clip the last bolt then head back right using a difficult-to-see crimp and a highly polished crimp on the arete. Some awkward footwork and perhaps an undercling lead to a horrible sidepull immediately next to the left anchor chain. From here I suppose most folks grab the chains in desperation, and some use the hard-to-ignore crack on the right, while the few purists will execute one more hard move to a large hidden hold in the roof crack.


The 5th bolted route from the left; ends below a large roof.


5 Bolts, 2 BA

Comments on Ralph's Leisure Suit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 16, 2007

Would be 4 stars if not for the crack contrivance at the top.

By Anthony Stout
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 5, 2007

Ditto for the crack contrivance at the top. Additionally, the third bolt placement could be better. After you clip the second bolt, you continue a few moves above the bolt to a great stance (where a bolt would be helpful), then do a few semi-difficult moves where if you fall you could find yourself with a sore ankle on the slab below. Of course, you have a great pocket to finally clip the third bolt. The rest of the climb is protected well.

By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Aug 27, 2013

So great to do this thing with Jean. I think it's the only FA we ever did together. He's such an inspiration.