|Below The Old New Place
Another fine 12a on the left end of BTONP. There are 5 5.12a's within 15 feet of each other--a true sport climber's paradise! This one begins in the large dihedral before breaking out left onto the slabby face, with a long runout to the first bolt. Good crimping and sweet pockets lead up the narrowing wall to the crux section at the 4th bolt (and a difficult clip).
At this point the devil on your shoulder will try to lure you out left to the splitter hand crack and an eternity of 5.11c regret. If the angel prevails, head right and up via some thin, rounded crimps and sequential pockets, eventually heading back left to a large, heavily chalked crimp (visible from the ground). Clip the last bolt then head back right using a difficult-to-see crimp and a highly polished crimp on the arete. Some awkward footwork and perhaps an undercling lead to a horrible sidepull immediately next to the left anchor chain. From here I suppose most folks grab the chains in desperation, and some use the hard-to-ignore crack on the right, while the few purists will execute one more hard move to a large hidden hold in the roof crack.
The 5th bolted route from the left; ends below a large roof.
5 Bolts, 2 BA
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 16, 2007
Would be 4 stars if not for the crack contrivance at the top.
|By Anthony Stout|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 5, 2007
Ditto for the crack contrivance at the top. Additionally, the third bolt placement could be better. After you clip the second bolt, you continue a few moves above the bolt to a great stance (where a bolt would be helpful), then do a few semi-difficult moves where if you fall you could find yourself with a sore ankle on the slab below. Of course, you have a great pocket to finally clip the third bolt. The rest of the climb is protected well.
|By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)|
Aug 27, 2013
So great to do this thing with Jean. I think it's the only FA we ever did together. He's such an inspiration.