|Below The Old New Place
Quality stemming up an aesthetic corner.
Stem the open book under the big roof, finding ledges on pockets on the side walls. The seam in the corner provides adequate protection; RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful. Higher the crack widens rewarding the climber with hand jams just before you reach the roof.
Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts to the right, or Ralph's Leisure Suit to the left. Doing this is advantageous in that one can more easily clean his or her gear while lowering, but the disadvantage is being shortchanged as you miss out on the fun roof traverse, which might be the crux of the complete route.
The obvious open book under the big roof (to the right of Leisure Suit and Polyester Terror; to the left of Flesh Eating Gnats)
Nuts and cams to 2". Those wanting to really sew it up will want RPs and TCUs.
Use the 2-bolt anchor for Flesh-Eating Gnats, or the 2-bolt anchor below the roof for Pathogenic Cysts.
BETA PHOTO: Roger Rumsey (blue, left) on Ralph's Dilemma (Mark...
|By Jason Hundhausen|
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 26, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Be Warned! Discovered last night that there's a wasp's nest in the small circular pocket immediately to the left of the crack a little over halfway up Ralph's Dilemma. Lots of pissed off buzzing coming from the pocket after I inadvertently stuck my fingers in there! Fortunately, I must not have disturbed them too bad because none came out.
|By Jesse Punsal 1|
Nov 30, 2013
To get the full route experience: place a solid .75 above the first bolts and climb to the anchors on Flesh-Eating Gnats, then downclimb and clip the bolts under the roof for easy cleaning. Gear is tiny but good.