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Below The Old New Place
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Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 
Color of My Potion S 
Fat Boys Don't Fly S 
Flesh-Eating Gnats S 
Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 
Greg Shredder T 
I Dogged Your Wife and She is a Doofus S 
Inflight Movie S 
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L Dopa T 
Little Shop Of Horrors S 
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 
Manic Nirvana S 
Monsterpiece Theatre S 
Oscar de La Cholla T 
P.M.S. S 
Pathogenic Cysts S 
Polyester Terror T 
Putterman Cracks T 
Ralph's Dilemma T 
Ralph's Leisure Suit S 
Ralph's Revenge T 
Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 
Route 1 T 
Route 22 T 
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Sardonic Smile S 
Scandanavian Airlines S 
Strong Urge to Fly S 
Wailing Banshees S 

Ralph's Dilemma 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Page Views: 1,540
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007

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Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not ...


Stem up the aesthetic open book under the big roof. RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful gear in sections. Just before you reach the roof, the crack widens to hand-size.

Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts to the right, or Ralph's Leisure Suit to the left. Doing this is advantageous in that one can more easily clean his or her gear while lowering, but the disadvantage is being shortchanged as you miss out on the fun roof traverse, which might be the crux of the complete route.


The obvious open book under the big roof (to the right of Leisure Suit and Polyester Terror; to the left of Flesh Eating Gnats)


Nuts and cams to 2". Those wanting to really sew it up will want RPs and TCUs.

Use the 2-bolt anchor for Flesh-Eating Gnats, or the 2-bolt anchor below the roof for Pathogenic Cysts.

Photos of Ralph's Dilemma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Roger Rumsey (blue, left) on Ralph's Dilemma (Mark...
BETA PHOTO: Roger Rumsey (blue, left) on Ralph's Dilemma (Mark...

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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 26, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Be Warned! Discovered last night that there's a wasp's nest in the small circular pocket immediately to the left of the crack a little over halfway up Ralph's Dilemma. Lots of pissed off buzzing coming from the pocket after I inadvertently stuck my fingers in there! Fortunately, I must not have disturbed them too bad because none came out.
By Jesse Punsal 1
Nov 30, 2013

To get the full route experience: place a solid .75 above the first bolts and climb to the anchors on Flesh-Eating Gnats, then downclimb and clip the bolts under the roof for easy cleaning. Gear is tiny but good.

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