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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Raising The Roof 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: August 2006 - George Hurley, Chris Noonan
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Ian Wauchope on Apr 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

This climb is an extension of The Roof and provides you with a nice 3-pitch climb.

Pitch 1: Climb The Roof as usual. As you come up to the roof continue climbing for about 25' up it's right side in a moderate corner to a ledge. You can setup a gear-belay in the corner here where you can see your second, rappel from a tree on the right, or continue up the corner to the large Unicorn ledge.

Pitch 2: Continue up the corner or step right & climb up a small buttress (awkward) to the big Unicorn Ledge. Belay from a 2-bolt anchor on the left side of the ledge.

Pitch 3: Start just left of the belay at a blocky corner. Climb straight up a series of corners to some arching grooves. Move right (crux) and follow the 3 bolts up to a hand-sized horizontal crack. High-step into the horizontal and make a thin move (crux) to the 2 bolt anchor below a steep slab. Rappel from here or climb the final unprotected mossy slab for 25-30 feet to the trees at the top of the cliff.


Descent: Rappel from the 2-bolt anchors to the ledge at the finish of the North End climbs. Walk left and rappel from a tree just above Recluse.


Location 

Look for a large corner capped by a roof on the left side of the North End. It's 20' left of The Slot.


Protection 

standard rack to a #3 Camelot



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By chinos
Apr 14, 2012

this climb can be done as 2 pitches as well...

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jul 14, 2012

Definitely a Cathedral "9"! :) Good pump factor for sure.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jul 16, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't george clean and maybe add a bolt to the unicorn corner for a .9 crack pitch? Liger? Pretty good climbing.

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Jul 17, 2012

Hi Jon! He did, it is a 10a called the Liger.

By Skarvinko
From: Arlington, MA
Jul 22, 2013

I'd second making this into 2 pitch climb... I also enjoyed a nice no hands stance at off the roof (height dependant).