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This is a great climb up a beautiful section of the wall that also happens to be about 40ft from one of the most popular walkways in Yosemite Valley. If you climb this on a weekend, you can expect to draw a large crowd.
Start by scrambling up a ramp that leads in from the left, and then step out onto the face and climb the arete of a small right-facing corner. There is some gear to be had in the corner itself. From here climb up to a faint arch and then up and left past two bolts on nicely featured stone. The final crux is more blank but protects with a good small cam in a crack. From this ledge, move right and do a boulder problem to reach a second ledge (watch the loose rock). There is a single bolt anchor here which you can back up with gear.
There is a newer variation which has been added to the left of this route. From the arete in the beginning, move left to a bolt and continue up and left on the face with a few more bolts. Towards the end you traverse right along a dike to rejoin the climb at it's final crux. Be sure to extend the final bolt, before the traverse. This variation takes some of the bite out of the "R" rating. This is not to be confused with Stretch Mark (5.11b) which is the bolted line still further left.
To descend, downclimb the 2nd/3rd class gully to the left (the lower section of the Sunnyside Bench Route)
Pro to 1" but mostly small.
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Apr 14, 2013
IMO the best face pitch for the grade in the Valley.
In 12+ years living in yosemite I have never seen anyone on it. What does that say for the popularity of R rated climbs. Kinda too bad. Great fun climbing with cool features. Also FYI, the pitch isn't over til it's over.