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South Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agent Orange T 
Airy Scary T 
Alias The Martian T 
Eagle's Nest T 
Eagle's Nest (original) T 
Rainy Daze  S 
Surface Tension T 
Unknown (South Face Left) T 
Unknown (South Face Middle) T 
Unknown (South Face Right) T 
Yikes Dikes T 
Zig Zag Man T 

Rainy Daze  

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, John Fleming, Jim Haisley
Page Views: 214
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Feb 9, 2009

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Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short but challenging route. Doesn't look like much (it's not) but the moves are actually decent overhanging cranks. My recollection is it felt closer to a 12b than an a. But then it was cold and wet so...

Possibly just a high ball for some of you these days with a good pad.

Two bolts and a few pieces will get you up the overhanging seam and onto the west face slabs.

Good climb to do when the weather has screwed you from doing anything else at TP. It's steep enough that the rock will stay dry for quite awhile.

We put this up sometime in the early '90s when we got nailed by a fall rain. This was the only dry rock around. We were hanging out staying dry when I started bouldering the start and realized there was a decent little problem to be had there.

Unfortunately, it took us over an hour per bolt to hand drill the darn things. Half way into the first hole the bit broke and the second bit had a taper that caused continual binding in the hole. We weren't going anywhere though and this was one way to stay warm.

And yes, it was ground up, all 30 or so feet of it.

Location 

On the left side of the South Face of South Rock is a large pine and a right leaning seam through overhanging rock with 2 bolts. I remember the bolts as being right of the pine.

Climb this right leaning seam up past the two bolts to where you go straight up past the top bolt which will dump you onto the west face ramps. Easy ground leads to the summit. From the second bolt, the longer you stay right and on the steep face, the more worthwhile moves you'll add to this climb.

At the time, we set a belay once on the ramps and then 3rd classed down the wet slabs rather than finishing up to the top. Seams (sic) like we might have tossed the rope over a bush or something to quasi TR down the last person.

Protection 

2 bolts and finger sized cams/nuts. If going to top, probably want a more complete rack.


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