Rainy Day, Dream Away
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This is a fantastic line up the obvious right-facing corner system right of Tumbling Rainbow (5.9). A short section of thin crack leads past a bolt (crux) and then into the shallow corner system above.
The protection is adequate, provided one has a good selection of thin gear, as well as the endurance to hang out and place it on this continuously challenging route. Not done too often, but that actually works to your advantage, as there's probably no waiting to be done on this route. Three out of five stars.
bolt (3/8"), gear to 1.5" including small wires
"Rainy Day, Dream Away" is a song on "Electric Lad...
|Comments on Rainy Day, Dream Away
|By C Miller|
Dec 14, 2002
Originally led without the bolt, which was added later when Tic Tic Boom was climbed. See the comments for Tic Tic Boom for the lowdown.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Dec 19, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Indeed, rarely done.
|By Scotty Nelson|
Jan 24, 2008
With the bolt, is this a well protected route?
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 24, 2008
Scotty, I followed this last winter and here's what I remember: The crux is very low, at about the 12' level, but you're starting off the top of a mini pillar (i.e. don't fall before the first piece or it would be ugly). It protects ok with multiple small wires (brass and/or offset helpful) entering he crux, not ideal, but good enough. Leader fell on that gear IIRC. Above the slightly awkward/tricky but short crux the climbing and gear is easier and much more straightforward, although somewhat steep after it turns the corner onto the right side face. Protection is good above the crux with wires and cams, you just have to hang out a bit to place it and it's a little spaced.
Jan 25, 2008
Here is the scoop. The bottom has good thin gear which leads to the bolt. The crux is protected by the bolt. Above, you can follow the original line up and angling slightly right along a shallow crack system. A better finish is to head back left from the shallow crack onto the arete which is 5.10a/b (Called Days of Thunder) and protected by 3 bolts. Two bolt anchor/rap.