Rainday 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | TravisMelin on May 2, 2007 |
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SteveZ moving up into the crux.
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No longer private property. See below. MORE INFO >>>
Any climbing done here is technically trespassing. I am posting it for history sakes and those undeterred by legal ramifications. Climb at your own legal risk.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Nice face route, fairly sustained. The crux is right at the top. You can clip the anchors of the crux holds if your tall, or its a couple more tough moves to gain the ledge.
Location To find this you have to do a short scramble up and left from the base of the mixed route to just beneath a pine tree.
Protection 6 bolts, webbing and rap ring anchor.
Rhoads at the 2nd bolt.
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Rhoads at the upper crux.
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Remo.
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Remo to the jug!
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Reinke on Rainday
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Knapp on Rainday
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By Trad Nanny
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.12b
| I think this is the face route just left of Awesome Arete (which is not mixed). Mixed route is the 5.10 in the dihedral. |
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 16, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b
| 11- to a nice technical crux. Would be nice to bring a saw to do a little tree trimming. Not sure my partner enjoyed the elevator ride through the pine tree as I fell :) |
By Trad Nanny
Aug 4, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| The anchor for this is a mess of old rope and a wire secured with clamps. I have a chain to put on and I will do so next time I'm here. |
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.12a/b
| This climb is a little gem. The rock quality and the movement are really good. |
By Trad Nanny
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| Fun, easy 5.11 balance climbing until the last moves, a powerful layback with an interesting sequence.
Can we rename this "Rainday"? In honor of today and to make it easier to refer to ;)
I also put new chains on the anchor. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 1, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| Quality route. I definitely think this is harder than Kingdom Come... or that route is soft but that's not true so this is definitely 12b. Great crux moves! |
By Trad Nanny
Nov 24, 2011
rating: 5.12b
| I trimmed the tree today, much cleaner falls. |
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b
| Maybe the best 12 at castle rock - fun technical boulder problem at the top. Thanks for replacing the manky anchor setup! Your welcome for packing out the old anchor setup left at the base of the climb :) |
By Trad Nanny
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.12b
| Thanks Chris, not sure why I left that there, I must have forgotten. Usually I pack out a bag of trash everytime I go.
This is a great climb, but I can't say I enjoy getting smacked in the face with the hardest moves right at the top, hence 3 out of 4 stars. |
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b
| No worries, thanks again for replacing with chains. The old anchor setup looked rough!
It is worth bringing a trash bag when you climb at castle rock. Lots of beer cans and trash. |
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