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 ADVANCED
Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchovy Caper, The S 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
Arugula, Arugula S 
Barbershop Duet T 
Big Easy, The S 
Boats from Cuba T 
Bonnie and Clyde S 
Bourbon Street S 
Brendan's Bitches T 
Cereal Killer S 
Climb and Punishment S 
Clusterphobia S 
Far From Feral S 
Fish Corner  S,TR 
Flying Squirrel S 
Green Mile S 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b S 
Juicy Fingers T 
Maltese Falcon, The S 
Maria's Variation T 
Men In White Suits S 
Mesresha (open project) S 
Metamorphosis S 
Mister Meaner S 
Rainbow S 
Scene of the Crime S 
Sesame Street S 
Slack T 
Toxic Gumbo S 
White Buttress, The T 

Rainbow 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tom Bowker, Jay Golden 3/86
Page Views: 1,774
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (57)
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jakob climbing rainbow

Description 

So this old obscurity has been retro bolted and though it is still moderate it doesnt seem like 5.5. I felt it was 5.7. Start just left of Men In White Suites and follow bolts over a couple bulges and finish up the weird ramp feature near the top of that route finishing at the top of the cliff above The Wimpy Gilman Ridge.

There are many moderate routes you should go out of your way for before you get to this one.

edit- At the crux bulge, climbing to the left of the bolts, using the jugs in the small corner ( can get a kneebar) before pulling back around right, will keep the grade in the lower range. Direct is fun too, but may be 5.7


Location 

See description.


Protection 

Glue-in eyebolts (5?) and anchor.



Photos of Rainbow Slideshow Add Photo
Rainbow. Good 5.6.
Rainbow. Good 5.6.
rainbow starts to the right of the small birch.  There are now 7 bolts on the route and is a good time
rainbow starts to the right of the small birch. T...
Tim about to start this fun moderate.
Tim about to start this fun moderate.
Tim at the base of Rainbow <br />
Tim at the base of Rainbow
Tim post crux.
Tim post crux.
Comments on Rainbow Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2013
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007

FA - Tom Bowker

In the process of being retroed with permission of Mr. Bowker. The bolts are in, but still needs some cleaning (as of late Nov07)

Climbs to the left of Men in White Suites following eyebolts up a steep section to a lower angled face/left leaning corner with interesting holds. Nice climbing with easier versions of the moves that make Rumney climbing so interesting. A kneebar can be had before pulling around the arete onto the steep face.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 27, 2007

i will check out the route and update my description...

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 30, 2009

This was actually quite enjoyable. It's retro-bolted and ends at some glue-in bolts. We started on the ledge, slightly to the left of Rainbow. The top slab leads to a fun view of the waterfall... but bring your spider web wand or have your friend lead it first. :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Hey Lee just noticed that this route is still posted as trad, maybe want to change it to sport now that it has been retro bolted, the anchors are two glue ins. perhaps to encourage rapping of the routes in rumney. just figured i would give you a heads up on the change

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2009

i updated the whole description.... thanks for the reminder...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 9, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree with lee there are a lot better moderates in the area, right around the corner there is Dirtigo and the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge and there are plenty others, but this route does serve a purpose, and that purpose is to make another moderate in the area for over crowding.

...Lee it is completely retroed now so i don't think you need any trad gear on this route...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2009

dang matt you catch me for everything... haha... i fixed it

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 10, 2009

I've only been on it once. Do you know if there is any potential for continuing past the anchors up and around the corner to Wimpy or Mogli?

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I dont know if that is possible, but that would be cool I will haave to check it out next time i am out there

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 11, 2009

I know if you lowered off of whimpy gilman the rope would run over sharp edges...

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 21, 2012

F.A. Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. These guys brought me out to show off this new climb and I led it. Thought then it wasn't worth while because the original way went left of all the steep sections. Free soloed it recently and followed the bolted line. It is now worth while and the top off right of the rappel bolts was exciting. Original line had one 5.5 move on it. Now there more moves at this grade and the finish may be 5.7. There used to be a forest walk off. Its gone because of the great fire. Now smooth white rock slabs, fallen trees and some briers. Rapping down is better

By J Meagher
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great easy route to get on if the stuff on armed and dangerous area is busy. Nice easy jugs at the beginning and some great slab moves that might be just a little bit harder than 5.6.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
May 15, 2013

Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof.

By Adam Sadowski
From: Watertown, MA
Jul 15, 2013

I found this climb thoroughly enjoyable for the grade with fun moves throughout. Maybe 5.7 instead of the 5.6 listed in the book.

IIRC it has rap links at the anchor now. I lowered off my draws and had my second clean and rap.

Still a bit sharp but not as dirty as people said it was.

By Russ Keane
Oct 16, 2013

This climb is beautiful. Very nice experience for the grade.