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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
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Amazing Grace S 
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 
Fastest Drill S 
Grapefruit Dance S 
Indecent Exposure T 
Men at Work T,S 
Over the Rainbow T,S 
Pete & Bob's T 
Pillar Climb T 
Rainbow Bridge T,S 
Trigger Finger S,TR 
Unzipped S,TR 
Warren - Johnson S,TR 
Zipper, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rainbow Bridge 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ed Webster
Page Views: 3,539
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Greg Lomme on "Rainbow Bridge".

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  • Description 

    This is a good route on the North side of Gateway Rock. It ascends a wide crack that is also the start of Men At Work but continues up and left. The crack leads to a small pedestal where you can rest before starting the hard climbing. Traverse left across a series of potholes protected by drilled pins. After about 25', head straight up on thin face holds (crux) to a bolted anchor above. The pitch is 90'. Ric Geiman's book calls this route 10+, and it may have been when Ed Webster did the first ascent but it has become very slick at the crux and some of the holds have worn away making it very difficult for 5.10....

    Protection 

    8 or 9 draws and some large cams for the start.


    Photos of Rainbow Bridge Slideshow Add Photo
    Climber: Sean Stellick. Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
    Climber: Sean Stellick. Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
    The potholes.
    The potholes.
    BETA PHOTO
    5/8" x 6" glue-ins.
    5/8" x 6" glue-ins.
    Clean.
    Clean.

    Comments on Rainbow Bridge Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By gumbi
    Sep 24, 2003

    One of my favorite routes in The Garden although slick. After the first pitch, I usually go right to a 60ft aid traverse. Then either straight up over a small overhang or right on some very loose rock to a 5.6 last pitch. A beautiful route to enjoy as the sun sets!
    By Matt Juth
    From: Evergreen
    Apr 28, 2004

    Agree. It is difficult for 5.10. The potholes are the neatest part of the route.
    By Dan Swann
    Sep 25, 2008

    GREAT climb, crux crimp gets smaller and smaller ...I think .10d now.
    By dancesatmoonrise
    Oct 31, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    One of the pins above the potholes fell out this past June. We climbed it in May, it was there. In July, it was gone. It is still leadable without it, but it would sure would be safer if the missing one were replaced - along with the half-out ringed piton that starts the potholes traverse.

    Along with T-Ex and Anaconda, one of the best routes in the Garden.
    By Jordan Hirro
    From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
    Nov 10, 2012

    New favorite line in the Garden. Something about the pothole traverse to upside down lieback finishing with monos and crimps just get me. Hard to believe it's just a 10+... after discussing with other climbers, I think it's safe to say it's now in the 11a range. Undoubtedly though, an amazing route.
    By dancesatmoonrise
    Nov 18, 2012
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Rolofson calls it 5.11- (Hubbel & Rolofson, 1988, p 236.)
    By matt bruton
    From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
    Dec 1, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    Hands down my favorite route in The Garden.