Rainbow Bridge 5.10+
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Seasonal falcon nesting closures MORE INFO >>>
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a good route on the North side of Gateway rock. It ascends a wide crack that is also the start of Men At Work but continues up and left. The crack leads to a small pedestal where you can rest before starting the hard climbing. Traverse left across a series of potholes protected by drilled pins. After about 25', head straight up on thin face holds (crux) to a bolted anchor above. The pitch is 90'. Ric Geiman's book calls this route 10+, and it may have been when Ed Webster did the first ascent but it has become very slick at the crux and some of the holds have worn away making it very difficult for 5.10....
Protection 8 or 9 draws and some large cams for the start.
Greg Lomme on "Rainbow Bridge".
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Climber: Sean Stellick.
Photo: Dancesatmoonrise.
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The potholes.
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5/8" x 6" glue-ins.
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Clean.
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| Comments on Rainbow Bridge |
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By gumbi
Sep 24, 2003
| One of my favorite routes in The Garden although slick. After the first pitch, I usually go right to a 60ft aid traverse. Then either straight up over a small overhang or right on some very loose rock to a 5.6 last pitch. A beautiful route to enjoy as the sun sets! |
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Apr 28, 2004
| Agree. It is difficult for 5.10. The potholes are the neatest part of the route. |
By Dan Swann
Sep 25, 2008
| GREAT climb, crux crimp gets smaller and smaller ...I think .10d now. |
By dancesatmoonrise
Oct 31, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| One of the pins above the potholes fell out this past June. We climbed it in May, it was there. In July, it was gone. It is still leadable without it, but it would sure would be safer if the missing one were replaced - along with the half-out ringed piton that starts the potholes traverse.
Along with T-Ex and Anaconda, one of the best routes in the Garden. |
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 10, 2012
| New favorite line in the Garden. Something about the pothole traverse to upside down lieback finishing with monos and crimps just get me. Hard to believe it's just a 10+... after discussing with other climbers, I think it's safe to say it's now in the 11a range. Undoubtedly though, an amazing route. |
By dancesatmoonrise
Nov 18, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Rolofson calls it 5.11- (Hubbel & Rolofson, 1988, p 236.) |
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