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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Rain Song 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: David Babich, 1980
Page Views: 202
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Nov 4, 2012

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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A short pure slab route, with its crux near the ground. Keeping right above the bolt makes this 5.7 R, but heading left after clipping keeps it around 5.6 R.

Location 

The slab area between the left-facing open book of Tyro's Test Piece to the right, and the Regular Route crack to the left.

Protection 

One bolt, just before the crux - basically runout. No bolted anchors, no rap station. You can build a trad anchor over it, or walk off to the left (a couple of class 3 scrambling moves required).


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