|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Doug Byerly and Kath Pyke|
|Submitted By:||paco on Jun 1, 2001 with updates from Ken Duncan|
|Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Rain Dance||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By J. Albers
Jan 28, 2010
Anybody interested in adding a description of the climb that gives some information about the where the route goes, starts, etc.
By Ken Duncan
From: Ft Collins, CO
Aug 22, 2015
Here is a description of how we did the route using a 70m rope. Most of the pitches should go the same with a 60. Start on a ledge above the highest grassy point right of the starting slabs for Arrowplane, etc. There are great belay ledges all the way!
P1. Climb the groove and fins above to a grassy slope 5.6. Belay at the highest grassy point.
P2. Angle up and left the the top of the big, R-facing dihedral then head straight up to another large grassy ledge 5.7.
P3. Climb the groove/flake feature above to a third large, grassy ledge 5.6. Belay here or on the rock ledge down and right below the P4 crack.
P4. The money pitch. Climb the left-angling crack up the sweeping slab 5.8 at the start, then it gets easier. Continue along the crack as it arches left into the left-facing dihedral 5.9 then up to an optional belay ledge on the right. Hand traverse a flake left then climb the thin crack up to another big, grassy ledge 5.9+/10a.
P5. From the left end of the ledge, climb a short dihedral, then angle left up a grassy slope. Head back right and climb a short 5.8 chimney to a ledge. Now you have three options, a right-angling groove that heads into the dihedral 5.8, the dihedral 5.9, or the right wall 5.10a. Choose one and take it to the top.
Gear: standard rack with extra small to medium cams.
By Dana Prosser
5 days ago
|This is our pitch breakdown with a 60m rope. We went up summit ramp halfway and traversed left to a grassy ledge (started this route on pitch 3 as described above). Pitch 3 starts in an low angle opposing corner system - set up belay on right side of grassy ledge below finger crack. Pitch 4 is awesome finger crack to left-facing corner. We belayed about 10 ft shy of the top of the corner on a good ledge - this was a full 60m pitch. Pitch 5 - left on flake to thin crack (10a variation), then traverse left to belay below obvious left-facing corner system. Pitch 6 - took 10a variation right of corner - this pitch has a lot of lichen and crumbly rock (may be better to climb corner?). Overall a very fun route!|