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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2011
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks

I did a search and couldnt find anything on when it is safe to climb after it rains.

Does anyone know about how long after a day of rain you would have to wait to climb safely?


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By Jeff Stephens
From Carbondale, CO
Oct 5, 2011
Eastside

Rained pretty hard all day in Red Rock today. But was dry last week. So a 24 hour wait ought to suffice. Friday morning should be good to go.


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By Evan1984
Oct 5, 2011

All depends on the stone.

Bulletproof granite can be climbed as soon as its dry to the touch.

On the other end of the spectrum, soft sandstone needs 3-4 days to fully dry.

Wet stone is less strong, which makes placements less reliable and increase the chance of damaging the rock.

Evan


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By Eric Fjellanger
Oct 5, 2011
Me on top of Chianti Spire

Come on, you guys. You can climb in the rain. It just gets a little harder.

With the exception of sandstone.


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2011
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks

Okay thanks guys. I was looking at the weather up in Red Rocks tomorrow its supposed to be sunny the rest of the week through the weekend. Wanted to see if I could climb tomorrow.


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By Finn the Human
From The Land of Ooo
Oct 5, 2011
Mathematical!

Eric Fjellanger wrote:
Come on, you guys. You can climb in the rain. It just gets a little harder. With the exception of sandstone.


It has started raining on me while halfway up a route several times. It sucks balls.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 5, 2011

Mostafa wrote:
Okay thanks guys. I was looking at the weather up in Red Rocks tomorrow its supposed to be sunny the rest of the week through the weekend. Wanted to see if I could climb tomorrow.


Given the current forecast, I would say Saturday would be the earliest you can climb assuming sun all day on Friday. Tomorrow is supposed to be cloudy with a decent (30%) chance of rain.

Sunday would be better, though, given current temperatures and the amount of rain the last few days.

The best rule of thumb is that if the ground is wet, the rock is too weak to climb on.


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By smassey
From CO
Oct 6, 2011

From some friends that were poking around in the rain before heading to the bar yesterday: A few folks were climbing in the corridor, and someone pulled off that massive undercling flake on one of those 5.9s on the left. Didn't ask if the belayer was wearing a helmet, or if they were just lucky, but the chunks were head-size.
Moral of this story: Aztec Sandstone turns to mud inside when it's wet. Please give it enough time to dry. Just because it's sunny today doesn't mean it's dry. If you were one of those peeps in the Corridor, go home. Thank you.
Mostafa- as a local, even a new one, it is important that we try to set a good example - educate our friends about this and show some personal restraint. With the amount of rain we've had this week, if it stays dry today it should be good to go by Sat, like John said. If shady routes feel snappy, stay in the sun.


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By Eric-D
From Las Vegas, nv
Oct 6, 2011

Oh the sunny routes. How I have missed you during these long summer months.


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By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 6, 2011
South of Windy Peak

smassey wrote:
A few folks were climbing in the corridor, and someone pulled off that massive undercling flake on one of those 5.9s on the left. Didn't ask if the belayer was wearing a helmet, or if they were just lucky, but the chunks were head-size.

That's funny because a friend and I were just talking about that flake and how it's going to come off soon. I'm glad nobody got hurt. People shouldn't climb on the wet rock, yet those people in the Corridor probably did us all a favor. That flake looked pretty deadly.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 6, 2011
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Can't you make this a sticky in here? It seems like "rain in red rocks" comes up at least once a week in fall?


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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 7, 2011
Skiing around.

Nick Mardirosian wrote:
Can't you make this a sticky in here? It seems like "rain in red rocks" comes up at least once a week in fall?

Done.
Nick - if you see other threads that you think should be added in the future, drop me a PM.


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By Matt Marino
From Georgetown, MA
Oct 7, 2011
Haul Bag

Mostafa wrote:
Thanks for the advice! I was nearby Red Rocks today and I saw a massive rain cloud figured I couldn't climb anytime soon!


How much rain did you get yesterday? I was planning on spending Saturday and Sunday on Black Velvet Wall, think I can stick with the plan, do I need to detour to something South facing or am I going to have to go to Joshua Tree this weekend? Thanks.


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Oct 7, 2011
Cool snow formation at the base.

Matt Marino wrote:
How much rain did you get yesterday? I was planning on spending Saturday and Sunday on Black Velvet Wall, think I can stick with the plan, do I need to detour to something South facing or am I going to have to go to Joshua Tree this weekend? Thanks.


This gives you a general idea. www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/getobext.php?wfo=vef&sid=RRKN2&num>>>

The rain yesterday was scattered and appeared to stay mainly in the northern parts of Red Rock. It did pour at my house last night (Sahara & 215). The gauge is located by Calico, so it doesn't really tell you exactly how much it rained in the canyons (evident by the fact that it says 0 precipitation yesterday).

It poured Tuesday and Wednesday, so I'd say Sunday would be safer than Saturday.


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By smassey
From CO
Dec 24, 2011

It was requested to add a few good alternatives to Red Rock for rainy days. Good alternatives include: Joshua Tree, Keyhole Canyon, Arrow Canyon, Xmas Tree Pass, Lone Mtn and the Gun Club. The latter two are located minutes off 215, and are one of the more popular rainy day alternatives, especially for visiting climbers that don't want to drive 1+ hr. See Desert Rock Sports for the new-ish topo to the routes at Suburban Crag (Lone Mtn). Hope that helps folks that don't want to take the time to look through the whole NV page. See individual pages for more specific beta.


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By michael rowell
Mar 12, 2012
sail away, joshua tree

so, back on the subject, was lookin to make the 10hr drive out to RR for spring break and now it is forecasting to rain on and saturday day(10%)/night(40%); sunday(40% chance); and monday (10% chance all day).

how soon will I be able to climb? How accurate are these forecasts(weather.com)? I am not familiar with the area at all so any info would help


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By sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Mar 12, 2012
Cool snow formation at the base.

michael rowell wrote:
so, back on the subject, was lookin to make the 10hr drive out to RR for spring break and now it is forecasting to rain on and saturday day(10%)/night(40%); sunday(40% chance); and monday (10% chance all day). how soon will I be able to climb? How accurate are these forecasts(weather.com)? I am not familiar with the area at all so any info would help


I like to use climbing weather or NOAA for my forecast. In my experience, anything over 30% chance pretty much guarantees it's going to rain. The forecasts here seem to be more reliable than most places in the country that I have lived. I'm guessing Tuesday would be the earliest you should climb if it does rain as scheduled.


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By Jon O'Brien
From Nevada
Mar 13, 2012

word squirl, anywhere else i've lived under 40% meant no rain. here, if there's even a 10% it seems to rain.


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 18, 2012
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks

Looking at weather reports shows no rain for today anyone know when it will be good to climb again at RR? Is Tuesday 20th first day?


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2012

It definitely rained today- the loop road was wet at 6pm tonight when we drove it for views of the snow in the mountains. (and we saw climbers- assholes.)

Id say tues pm for sport climbing, wed at the earliest for multipitch in the sun. Thursday would be better based on the snow and water visible on the big walls.


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By Mostafa
From Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2012
Cujo 5.11d Red Rocks

Great thanks for the heads up John! It would have been upsetting to make the drive and not climb.


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By Matt Kuehl
From Las Vegas
Mar 21, 2012
Plumbers Crack

I'm sorry but I just don't think blantantly calling people assholes is acceptable. It creates unnecessary hostility in the climbing community that we are trying to inform. Why would someone listen to another person who just blatantly insulted them? Or insulted them unknowingly on an online forum? It would be much easier to respect the opinion of a fellow climber if they talked with respect and as equals to each other. What might seem obvious to some, perhaps isn't' to others.

Sorry if my opinion is unpopular but I just don't like the tone that arises when it comes to climbing after rain. I understand this is a serious issue, so lets try to handle it seriously.

I talked to the BLM office today and disscused if they would be willing to post official signs at the pullouts/campground clearly explaining the regulations/recommendations for climbing after precipitation. From what I gathered it sounds like signage is in the works and will hopefully be displayed before the Rendezvous. It's a step in the right direction IMO.

That might help keep those wonderful, peaceful, and WELCOME visiting climbers informed about the seriousness and detrimental effects of climbing after precipitation.

Of course I mean no disrespect to anyone, I just think we could handle things differently as a community.


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By Steve123
Apr 1, 2012

The newspaper-like brochure that they hand out to every car that enters the loop road says this in the Rock Climbing at Red Rock section:
"... RAIN RAIN GO AWAY The sandstone becomes very brittle when it rains and should not be climbed for at least 24 hours. By allowing the sandstone to dry out, hand and footholds will not be broken and gear will be less likely to pull out during a fall. If it rains during your visit to Red Rock Canyon and the sandstone is too brittle, consider the limestone sport crags that are found in Red Rock and other climbing sites around Las Vegas. ..."


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 1, 2012

Matt Kuehl wrote:
I'm sorry but I just don't think blantantly calling people assholes is acceptable. It creates unnecessary hostility in the climbing community that we are trying to inform. Why would someone listen to another person who just blatantly insulted them? Or insulted them unknowingly on an online forum? It would be much easier to respect the opinion of a fellow climber if they talked with respect and as equals to each other. What might seem obvious to some, perhaps isn't' to others. Sorry if my opinion is unpopular but I just don't like the tone that arises when it comes to climbing after rain. I understand this is a serious issue, so lets try to handle it seriously. I talked to the BLM office today and disscused if they would be willing to post official signs at the pullouts/campground clearly explaining the regulations/recommendations for climbing after precipitation. From what I gathered it sounds like signage is in the works and will hopefully be displayed before the Rendezvous. It's a step in the right direction IMO. That might help keep those wonderful, peaceful, and WELCOME visiting climbers informed about the seriousness and detrimental effects of climbing after precipitation. Of course I mean no disrespect to anyone, I just think we could handle things differently as a community.


Ignorance is no excuse.

Its common knowledge that you dont climb wet sandstone and I bet all those out climbing knew better but thought they were the exception to the rule. This would make them assholes.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Apr 1, 2012
Hey there!

DexterRutecki wrote:
Ignorance is no excuse. Its common knowledge that you dont climb wet sandstone and I bet all those out climbing knew better but thought they were the exception to the rule. This would make them assholes.



I don't know if it's common knowledge necessarily. Maybe to those of us who've been climbing for a while, but if you're new to climbing, straight out of the gym, or what have you, I'd say there's a fair chance that you wouldn't know about the conditions of wet sandstone. And i'm not saying everyone who John saw climbing fit that bill, probably some of 'em were assholes, but I'd be willing to bet at least a few had no idea they were doing anything wrong. All that being said, ignorance is a poor excuse and people should make more of an effort to educate themselves about the area before risking damage to it, but then again this could be said for a lot of activities, not just climbing.


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By DexterRutecki
From Cincinnati, Ohio
Apr 1, 2012

Seth Derr wrote:
I don't know if it's common knowledge necessarily. Maybe to those of us who've been climbing for a while, but if you're new to climbing, straight out of the gym, or what have you, I'd say there's a fair chance that you wouldn't know about the conditions of wet sandstone. And i'm not saying everyone who John saw climbing fit that bill, probably some of 'em were assholes, but I'd be willing to bet at least a few had no idea they were doing anything wrong. All that being said, ignorance is a poor excuse and people should make more of an effort to educate themselves about the area before risking damage to it, but then again this could be said for a lot of activities, not just climbing.


Hmmm I highly doubt this was these peoples first day out of the gym.... Nice idea though. Ignorance is no excuse and as has been said it is printed in the visitors brochure you get as you come through the park. How much more clear can it be?

It is also stated in guide books, gear shops, any ranger or climber you ask....etc.


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