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Raiden Area
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Raiden 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Emerson Takahashi on Feb 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Setting up for the big move into the sloper.

Description 

Excellent, steep climbing on a salad bowl of holds.
Start on jugs, move to an "ok" sloper, then move up a series of blocky crimps to an easy top out.

Raiden is a great example in proper footwork, and if you don't have good beta or technique, the whole problem can feel difficult.

Location 

The Raiden problem is just to the right of the Kraken. You'll see a rounded rock with a cave on the uphill side. Start all the way down on the sculpted jugs.

To get down, just walk off the back of the boulder

Protection 

Just a couple of pads and a spotter will be good.
Landing slopes downward a little bit...


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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 23, 2014

A lot of people have been calling this v8 (on Sendage for instance), because apparently a hold has broken on it since the guide came out. I haven't gotten on it yet, so I can't contribute an opinion, but I thought it would be worth adding this info to the discussion.

Though from the sounds of it Emerson, you cruised it! Nice work!
By Emerson Takahashi
From: SLC, UT
Jun 4, 2014

Christian,
You are correct that it has been considered v8, but I think it's the other way around- a hold broke AND THEN it became v6.
It does seem to require good beta, so that also might be where the grade might come from...

Either way it's a great route, certainly a must-do for the grade if you're in Left Fork
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jun 8, 2014

Emerson-

You could be right, though I've seen recent videos with people calling it v8. But, it could be another classic case of Joe's Valley grade confusion. I really really hope the new guidebook is more accurate and consistent.
By Michael Schmenk
From: South Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 17, 2014

Yeah no way this is V8. It took me a while to figure out beta that worked, but once I did it went down pretty easy.