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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 225'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Derek Doucet on Jun 10, 2010
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Ragtime is superb, heady, and not to be missed if solid at the grade. The sustained and exhilarating 3rd lead offers classic Poko face climbing above small gear and is among the very best on the cliff.

    P1: Gain Sting ledge either by traversing in from the left (exposed 3rd/4th class) or via the first pitch of the Sting (fun 5.8).

    P2: Wander up the slightly scruffy and nondescript face above with only fair protection. The next pitch is worth it! You're aiming for an obvious bolted anchor left of P1 of Gamesmanship. 5.9- PG13.

    P3: Climb up and slightly left along the obvious, somewhat hollow flake-like feature and steep face above. A challenging bulge is encountered along the way before reaching a decent stance beneath the final, improbable looking steep section. Protect well, procrastinate and mutter a bit, then commit and decipher a puzzling sequence to gain (with considerable relief) another bolt and fixed anchor above. 5.10+ PG13.


    Begin by climbing the Sting, or by traversing in from the left on to Sting Ledge.


    Mixed gear and bolts, with the emphasis on thin stuff, including a healthy assortment of small wires, TCUs and Aliens. You'll be pleased as punch to have the small gear on the final pitch...

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