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Ragged Edges Area
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Ragged Edges 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Lansing, Joe Herbst, early 1970's
Page Views: 8,357
Submitted By: George Bell on Feb 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (196)
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Erin just past the crux and one move to go before ...

Description 

The classic trad route of Willow Springs. This route faces NE and can be cold, it is shady most of the day. Last time I led this I kinda forgot about all the wide sections and got a bit nervous on the runouts. It is quite commonly led with nothing bigger than a #4 Camalot (or less), for which it should probably be considered to have an "S" rating.

If you don't have big gear you can just do the first (short) pitch and rap from bolts. Be considerate of others who want to do the entire route, however. Especially with a 60m rope, it is possible to lead this as one long pitch, although you may want to do a short second pitch to reach the walk-off.

Climb the obvious crack in the center of the cliff. The first part is hand jamming and stemming, you will reach a 2 bolt anchor at 60'. From here you can toprope Ragged Edges and Plan F to its left. Above here the crack gets wider, at one point where it looks like you will have to get inside and offwidth it you move out onto the right face. The top out is rather indistict and it can be hard to find a good belay anchor. Watch out for crumbly rock at the top out.

From the top, walk down easily to the right (north).


Protection 

Standard rack, plus large cams are needed for good pro on this route. Take #3, #3.5, #4, #4,5 and #5 Camalots if you want good pro. Often led with much less than this, however (add pg/s rating).



Photos of Ragged Edges Slideshow Add Photo
Ragged Edges
BETA PHOTO: Ragged Edges
Richard at the blots at the top of pitch one - Ragged Edges.
Richard at the blots at the top of pitch one - Rag...
Graduate Cliff
BETA PHOTO: Graduate Cliff
Second pitch of Ragged Edges
Second pitch of Ragged Edges
Cruisin'
Cruisin'
Brian is now about 5 feet underneath the splitter crux; save those # 2 camelots!!
Brian is now about 5 feet underneath the splitter ...
Jim, nearing the crux on the first pitch
Jim, nearing the crux on the first pitch
The local tax collector at the base of Ragged Edges. You can dodge taxes by hanging your pack...
The local tax collector at the base of Ragged Edge...
Pretty obvious line up some great rock...
BETA PHOTO: Pretty obvious line up some great rock...
Brian starting up pitch 1 of Ragged Edges!
Brian starting up pitch 1 of Ragged Edges!
Brenda at 1st pitch anchors of Ragged Edges.  Climber to the left is on Plan F.
Brenda at 1st pitch anchors of Ragged Edges. Clim...
Comments on Ragged Edges Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 9, 2014
By 10b4me
Apr 7, 2004

I climbed this route a couple of years ago and found myself it deep doo doo above the bolts because I didn't have any large cams. I had a most unpleasant runout up the right side of the crack. Take large cams--4 to 5--or the largest tri-cam. I also feel the final moves to the bolts rate 5.9.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2004

Yeah, my pro list means take 1 each of #3-#5 Camalots (including half sizes). However I've never seen anyone lead it with this many big cams, I've never had anything bigger than a #4 on it.

Are there now bolts at the top out? I remember it used to just turn into a series of ledges covered with gravel, and it wasn't clear where to finish the pitch.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 13, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed Ragged Edges today. We used up to a pair of #4 Camalots and felt pretty well protected on the second pitch. The only runout, where the crack got a little wider, had good hands. Lots of places for a #2 around the start of pitch two. Nice and shady, the sun went behind the rock at about noon. There are no anchors for the top of the second pitch, I third-classed it up the low angle slabs to a tree and belayed from there with a fair bit of rope drag. The walk-off to the west was quick. I saw more loose holds on this route than I would have liked, but otherwise a fine route on a gorgeous day.

By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Aug 16, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crux section on pitch one , a beautiful "splitter-like" crack nearing the top of the pitch, takes #2 camalots well. I only had one of two left on my rack by the time I reached the crux ,but I was able to "walk it up" without any problem but ......TO save TWO, #2's ,would be good TO do TOO!

By Blitzo
Sep 23, 2006

I love this route. it's one of my personal favorites. The rock is so cool!

By Greg Gibson
From: Napa, Ca
Sep 29, 2006

Climbed this last March and used a few c-4's as well as tried out Trango's mid-range Maxcams to supplement my rack. Liked the fact that the Max Cams fit in areas that my C-4's didn't fit as well.

Sweet route with interesting rock

By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Jan 1, 2007

I took up to one #3.5 old size camalot. I did not feel the route to be scary with that size gear, as the runout part felt easy. I found the crux lower down to be pretty stiff for 5.8 though.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Its unfortunate that the anchor bolts are placed where they are. They come right in the middle of the best section of the climb. Ideally, they should have been placed about 10 feet higher at the end of the splitter fist crack and before the ow section. This would have warranted a four-star pitch.

By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 9, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We only climbed pitch 1 today because we did not have any large cams with us; heed the advice from an earlier post and have two # 2 camelots saved for the splitter crack crux. Makes it super nice and well protected. Brock/McMillan guidebook says pitch one is 5.7 but our party of four thought the crux was 5.8 for sure. Go climb this today; great pro and as good a pitch at the grade there is.

By Mark L
Jul 13, 2007

Climbed pitch one but not two. Pitch one has either very nice hand crack climbing if you want to strictly stay to the crack (although it is probably more like 5.9 then with the overhanging bulge) or huge buckets 2-5' to the right which provide rest spots and holds. You could pretty much face climb most of the thing on buckets but that's not why your here. I led by using the crack (mostly perfect hands here and there) for some parts and grabbing the buckets if I wanted a rest for pro. Then on TR it was great hand crack practice, especailyl the last few moves to the bolts on the top of P1.

By Erik Atkinson
From: Henderson, NV
Dec 15, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pitch one was some very nice climbing, without any big moves. As stated above, you will need some big cams, 5's and 6's, if you climb at this difficulty and want to feel totally protected on the second pitch. We only had one #4 C4, and I had to hunt a bit for a spot small enough to fit it. Using 2 cams in all for the second pitch, I ran out it out pretty far, but because the holds are huge and the climbing easy, I felt comfortable with it. I honestly did not find this route to be any more difficult than the book states. I actually felt that it was easier than climbs that are rated lower.

By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Apr 12, 2009

Fun two pitch climb that requires big cams on the second pitch. Climb up the crack on pitch 1, moving right onto the face about near the tope of the pitch. The crux on Pitch 1 is 1 or 2 moves before the belay station anchors. Stay right, get to the anchor height, then traverse left to the anchors. The crux to the second pitch is the move out from the anchors and onto the face right of the crack. Place a cam or two in the crack before heading out on the face. Runs out near the top, and it's very difficult to hear the climber/belayer at the top when standing at the end of pitch 1.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 9, 2010

I think the crack near the first anchor might be getting a touch wider- been over there alot lately, and its definitely #3 camalots just below the bolts now and cupped hands to fists. I seem to recall it being #2s and perfect hands a few years back...but maybe my memory is fuzzy.

Anyway, if you're doing the first pitch only, take a #3 camalot for the last few feet, and if you're going to the top, take a #4 and a #5 if youve got it along with a second #3 and dont stop at the bolts- the whole route is 59m long making it an excellent full value pitch.

By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Feb 20, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Jam and Jug Awesomeness. Only did first pitch cause I was scared to runout second pitch wide crack without a #5 or 6. Route was an very exciting 5.7 lead with great hand jams and a lot of jugs to pull on just when you need it. Leading it seemed like 5.7 with a possible 5.8 move if you stay left at the first small overhang. I set up a top rope and climbed it immediately afterward and it suddenly felt like a pumpy 5.5. Gotta love "LIfe on the sharp end". I'll come back with a few larger BDs or a couple big bros for the second pitch.

By James Reed
Dec 4, 2012

Climbed this last weekend and what a fun route. Thought the moves were mostly on the grade but even with a #6 as high as I could get it before it gets really wide, there is a pretty solid runout before you get a small piece on the right. Overall felt more like a 5.8 for a slightly stronger climber. Of the 3 classic 5.8's at RR: Lotta Balls, Red Book, and Ragged Edges, I like this one the best. Great hands on pitch 1 with beautiful featured rock.

On the first pitch looking up at the wide section
On the first pitch looking up at the wide section


Above the first belay with good hands before the offwidth.
Above the first belay with good hands before the offwidth.

By Canon
Dec 13, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did P1 only because all we had was a #4 camalot. Worth doing. 2 #2s helped.

By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this today with 1 #2, 2 #3's, 1 #3 Helium Friend, 1 #4, and 1 #6 for my bigger pieces. The second pitch was quite runout with this gear, but there were sections with easy climbing, so it didn't feel that scary. Having doubles in #3, #4, and #5 with perhaps some more of the half sizes would be desired for a comfortable climb

The anchor has 3 bolts with 2 rap rings, but the right one is quite worn

By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 30, 2013

Gear anchor available at two of the horizontal ledges at topout, finishing right of the crack. This would give the option of not needing to anchor way back at the tree where the crack levels and ends, lessen the possibility of rope flossing into a top cam and getting stuck, and would make a 60 m rope plenty long enough to do the whole climb in one pitch.

By Dennis
Nov 12, 2013

Climbed RE this weekend. Linked the first pitch of Plan F with the second pitch of RE for a nice 200' long pitch. A great way to do it. Had a single rack to #3, probably would have benefited from a #4, but there was at least one slingable horn and other places for pro on the face to the right of the crack on P2. P2 was still runout, but overall a fun route!

By Action in Solitude
Feb 24, 2014

Ian Lingley Climbs Ragged Edges (5.8) in Red Rock Canyon, Las Vegas

By Matt Westlake
Mar 19, 2014

P1 felt pretty easy except for the mandatory jamming at the end, which was very secure. I did P2 with 2 4s, a 5 and a 6 C4 and even so felt it was fairly runout near the top. The climbing wasn't difficult but I felt I was pulling on some questionable things when I switched to face climbing out right of the wide crack - about 1/2 to 2/3rds up P2? It stayed 6 C4 or bigger at that point. There were a couple of opportunities for some smaller gear on the right face but not much. Does everyone dodge onto the face (right or left?) or stay in the big crack? Seemed you would either need to walk a 6 or suck it up and chimney a long way above that last piece. Was my 2nd day on sandstone in a while so may not have been completely acclimated to the rock quality yet. Regardless, the harder bit on P2 was well protected with a couple 3s and 4 or two.

By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

didn't really feel the need for all the big gear on P2 but certainly you can use it if you want. the less protected friction on the top is just so easy that you don't miss the gear too much. crux above the anchor required a pretty deep jam if you don't have big hands. did the Plan F start for P1 and found the step right after the little roof to be a bit necky until i fiddled in a small nut down a round my shins. i think i was a bit left perhaps for that plan. that was 5.10 for sure. walk off couldn't be easier

By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pitch 1 with Jen. 4th or 5th time I've done this, but not for a few years. Crack at top of P1 is wider. Was #2, now it's #3. Used a second #2 about 15' lower, where in past was #1. And I'm keeping my 5.8+ rating. Anchor has rap ring and quick link on right. Rap ring is very worn, but quick link is good.