Luke Clarke at the crux ceiling (11b). The route a...
This route is located on the south-facing Warm Up Wall on Lost Angel. It is left of the double dihedrals of Jungle Blues and Spider. Rage goes through two large roofs, the second via a splitter hand crack angling up and right. The anchors are visible from the ground and so are the three bolts on the first roof. The crack through the second roof is very obvious.
Start with some steep moves on good holds through the first roof. A small nut between bolt 1 and 2 will reduce your chances of hitting the ground. After the third bolt, there is a difficult mantle and long reach up to a good hold. This will be very difficult for short people. After the mantle move, continue up an easier shallow dihedral for 10 feet to a good rest at the base of the crack. This is where the business starts. Plug in some good gear and jam small hands up and right through the wildly overhanging crack with very little for the feet. After about 20 ft. of very strenuous jamming, switch into a left-angling crack on good holds and swing up and left to the anchor. Rap or lower off.
Note: The description of this route in Rossiter's Falcon guide shows five bolts and a topo that does not fit with the route very well...??
There are three bolts down low, also bring some small wired stoppers and a #2, a #3, and a #4 Trango U-stem cams (#2 Metolius and 0.5 and 0.75 B.D. Camalot) 2 bolt anchor.
I considered this route to be a sport climb, as the only place I really needed gear was at the lip of the roof. I placed a bolt here and one higher up so that the climb could be done with just quickdraws. The reason these bolts were not found is that the route was likely vandalized. Also note that this area is called the Wake Up Wall...not Warm up Wall.
Yeah, the description in R's guide vs. this one is a bit different. I climbed it last summer and really felt no need to place gear and I am definitely not someone who would run out 5.11 (This was my first season climbing at that grade).
The last few moves were very thin and it seemed possible that there was some chipping to enhance a hold or two? Any thoughts?
Great route but could have done without running into the "sunbathers" below.
It's possible that I was not on the intended route because I didn't see any evidence of chopped bolts and to climb the upper crack without gear would be hair rasing to say the least. Richard, does the description of the route and the moves sound like the route you established?
Bryson.Rage is the first route left of Jungle Blues.I am not certain we are talking about the same route. I think of Rage as having just the one roof that is pierced by a crack. I did place a bolt underneath and just above this roof. I have not been back to the route in several years, so I am not sure about the bolts now. My recollection is of fine rock and a sunny wall. Glad you enjoyed it.
I think Richard and Karl are right. I climbed Rage Against the Machine, Drop Zone, and Rush in September 1999. My notes for RATM read "Begin with some thin moves on a steep wall followed by easier climbing to an intimidating bulge/roof split by twin cracks. The roof was as strenuous as it was intimidating. Easier climbing above (2 1/2 Friend optional) to the anchors on Rush. 6 bolts, 65'." That's pretty close to the route description in "Rock Climbing: Boulder." And, like Karl, I wouldn't climb a runout .11b crux.
Oops. Meant to add this but had another senior moment.
Bryson -- if the bolts on RATM haven't been chopped, it looks like you did an interesting, mostly trad FA.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Oct 12, 2003 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
The photo above should clear up the confusion. The route is as Richard Rossiter describes it above. The bolts are all there and in excellent condition--no sign of chopped bolts. 6 bolts plus the anchors.
Angle right past a bolt and onto a slab. Make the 11a (according to the topo) move to clip the 2nd bolt. I would have preferred that bolt to be 1 foot lower so it could be clipped prior to making this move. Over an easier bulge (9?) on big holds to the 3rd bolt and a good rest. Step left and over the ceiling (2 bolts, plus, I think, a bolt above after you finish). The ceiling is harder than it at first looks. Finger jams that look good aren't. After figuring out a couple of trick moves, it seemed more reasonable. Above the ceiling, run it out about 25 feet up a 5.5(??) crack/corner to the anchors, or bring a very light rack to protect this section.
By climberboy2 Nov 18, 2006 rating: 5.11a/b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Very nice climb...varied route from tough slab to powerful overhang moves.