Rafiki 5.12c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12c [details] |
| FA: | Mark Tarrant, Greg Purnell, Richard Wright, 2003 |
| Submitted By: | Mark Tarrant on Dec 7, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: Rafiki ascends the line of bolts just left of the ...
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Description Rafiki starts just right of Monkey Puzzle following 6 bolts up an overhanging wall. Climb both the face and the wide crack on the right (.10+) up to the fourth bolt. A knee bar rest helps in clipping bolt 4. Move left for 6' (.12) and then launch (crux) to some good holds below a 4' roof (.11c) The reason for the fixed sling on bolt 4 is that the rock is more integral higher up than the rock near the knee bar.
RW submitted the following description in 2003:
A killer (to be sure) line has been lurking just right of Monkey Puzzle. This is now a gorgeous, strenuous route with its own harrowing story. For years, Monkey Puzzle had been done using a brief rest that involved a good right hand edge on the top of an evidently solid sword. In preparing the new route, we were very skeptical of the integrity of the sword. Indeed, two light taps of the hammer sent the 500 pound sword earthward where it impaled itself two feet deep into the ground. Agamemnon would be proud. The Un-named Monkey ascends the continuously steep face just right of Monkey Puzzle by surmounting a strenuous bulge that is followed by a fully extended dyno. Difficult and interesting moves throughout make this a very worth-while endeavour. A possible, but uncompleted, left hand variation could bring up the difficulty to 5.13. Good strenuous addition.
Protection 6 bolts + 2-bolt anchor, 45'.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 13, 2003
| Is that Agamemnon or Damocles? How many other death flakes are lurking out there on the Front Range? My favorite is the tombstone on Sleepless in Boulder at Lower Boulder Falls. There's also a strangely held-on flake at the base of Sucking My Will to Live at the Primo Wall. |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 13, 2003
| It never seemed emminent that the flake on Sucking My Will would reef off. The feet are well enough placed that there is very little outward leverage on the flake. Nonetheless, it might be instructive to give it a whack now and again just to see what holds it on. The Gendarme fell; what else need be said? |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 13, 2003
| Damocles or perhaps Arthur as well. It certainly hung like the sword of Damocles. |
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Dec 18, 2003
| I don't know if Monkey Puzzle (on the left) will hold its 5.12c rating, however, it makes a useful contrast to this new route. First, it is relatively simple to get established under the roof of MP where it is possible to obtain a really thorough shake out. Second, both routes utilize a strenuous heel-hook to initiate moving through the crux. Third, a quick move gains a no hands rest at the last clip of MP. This new route is probably worth at least half a letter grade (or more). It is much more strenuous to arrive at the crux. While the heel hook is at least as strenuous as that in MP, it gets released half way into the crux leaving you a nasty crimper in the transition. The dyno, it's set up, and the final roof move add at least twelve more feet of 5.12 climbing to the new line. So, c/d or d may be close to right - unless MP is soft (5.12b?), and this being Table Mtn, MP may be soft for the grade. |
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