Rads For Rookies
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Rads for Rookies/Nebel Horn.
As the name implies, this route is pretty radical - even for rookies!
The climb can be found midway up the Nebel Horn Ridge and is identified by a huge chockstone at the top of a prominent chimney. The faces on both sidest of the chimney sport bolt lines. The right four bolt line is Rads for Rookies.
Begin atop a group of convenient flat rocks on the talus slope at the base of the Nebel Horn Ridge, found after scrambling uphill from the Fern Canyon trail and honing in on the huge chockstone. The actual climb begins from a ledge 40' above the talus gained by stepping off a large rock into a crack that angles up and right to the base of the Chockstone chimney. This initial section can be protected with a #4 in the wide crack on the initial crack and a double length runner around a tree on the left of a short slab. If you plan on climbing both bolt lines of the chimney you may want to set up an anchor in the back of the chimney on the ledge. It is easy enough, however, to just climb Rads straight up to the anchors. The initial moves off the ledge are huge jugs and make clipping the first bolt easy. The climbing above is sporty, challenging and aesthetic up the face past three more bolts. A two bolt anchor with aging slings and carabiners awaits on the summit. Rap back to your pack.
Four QDs, #4, one double length runner, stoppers and small gear for optional anchor and something for the two bolt anchor at the top. The aging slings and rings need replacing.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 8, 2002
Stiff for the rating. Thin moves above 2nd bolt for 5.8.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 12, 2004
IMO one of the best Flats 5.8s, although it may lean a little towards 9- on the 2 crux moves.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Climbing below bolt 1 can be protected with a variety of mid-size gear; a #4 isn't needed. Route stays shaded until afternoon, and crux felt harder than 5.8 with frozen fingers in January. After warming hands and staying on route better, it was a nice climb.