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Radio Head

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Not Alone 
Radio One 
Refiner 
Right of Center 
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Sun Burn 
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Super Nova 
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White Dwarf 

Radio Head 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 15, 2010
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Description 

Radio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun.

This crag was developed recently, primarily by Scott Sills and Jim Hausmann, but there was evidence that at least 2 routes had been discovered and climbed several years prior.


Getting There 

To get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers.

From the parking, head northwest along the ridge. The trail is pretty obvious as it goes along, first on the right side of the ridge crest, then over to the left. Stay on the west side of the ridge, just below the top, until you pass a big mess of quartz crystals.

At this point, you will see a large tower (Line of Sight Wall). Descend the slabs marked with cairns and logs and a couple of steps. Total approach time is approximately 15-20 minutes.


36 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',7],['5.9',5],['5.10',8],['5.11',7],['5.12',6],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Radio Head:
Sunrise Slab   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Centrist   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Black Velvet   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Right of Center   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Giant Dihedral   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Shimminy Cricket   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Tilt-a-Whirl   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Freezer Burn   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches   
Lady Fingers   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
White Dwarf   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Man Hands   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Crandall Hammer Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Refiner   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Bends   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Gigantor   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Tilt   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Super Nova   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Heat Stroke   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shiny Face   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
My Left Foot   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 3 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Radio Head

Featured Route For Radio Head
Second pitch can be seen to the right of center, splitter crack heading through the bulge.

The Bends 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a  CO : South Platte : ... : Radio Head
This is burly on both pitches, involving about every crack climbing technique.P1 (100', 14 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, 5.11c)Start at a bolted, flared chimney. Scott originally climbed this clean with gear, but this would have warranted an R/X rating with the scarcity of good protection available. After the chimney pinches down, the route veers to the left on thin crimps, then up to a comfortable belay just below the large bulge.P2 (100', 2 bolts & gear to 4" to anchor, 5.10d)Follow the hand to fi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Radio Head Slideshow Add Photo
Scott working on Triangulation (5.12c) on the Main Wall.
Scott working on Triangulation (5.12c) on the Main...
Trail to Radio Head.
BETA PHOTO: Trail to Radio Head.
Comments on Radio Head Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Carrington
From: Centenntial
Oct 9, 2010

If you actually find this area, you might want to add some cairns on the way back.

By Chris Monty
May 3, 2011

Just to let anyone know that is back in this area, the cairns on the "trail" are almost random. Took me way outside the climbing area. Be cautious of your climbing guidebook as the scale may not be correct for this area at all. Also take caution when hiking to the Gully Slab, the terrain is technical almost from the start of the trail.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
May 4, 2011

Sorry for the confusion on the RH approach. I seemed to go different ways for the first few times. The maps in the guidebook are to scale as I extracted them directly from aerial photos. The trick is to start off staying to the west (left) of the ridgeline when approaching. There could also be cairns from crystal hunters confusing the trail, too.

By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2012

The cairns lead to RH pretty well as of this last weekend. You need to start off correctly though, since I didn't see any cairns until after exiting the trees at the beginning of the hike.

By Tim C
From: Lakewood, CO
Sep 3, 2013

The trail is well-cairned right now. Also, to get to the start of the trail: take Rampart Road towards Devils Head, then when you get to a split where Devil's Head campground/fire tower are one way you will need to head (right) down the other road for ~0.8 miles until you see the radio towers on the right side.

By Scott Sills
Oct 2, 2013

Take trail n.w. from parking lot for about 100 yards turn west cross over ridge following the newly created (as of 2013) motorcycle trail until it drops downhill. Head north staying near the ridge of rock the whole time. There is a point were you squeeze through a few small boulders right before you cross a gully (you can go down this gully which is not as plesant and get to R.H. passing Lowball Wall first). The main way is to cross this gully and continue up a ramp heading north through an upen flat area, then skirt around a narrow point with a bit of exposure. After a few small elavation gains, you will pass a crystal dig and will see Line of Sight Wall.

In addition, after incountering several lost climbers looking for gully slab, it is located at the top of the gully beyond the north end of the main wall.

Hope this helps.