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DescriptionRadio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun. Getting ThereTo get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Radio Head:
Right of Center 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Giant Dihedral 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet
Tilt-a-Whirl 5.9 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Shimminy Cricket 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105 feet
Freezer Burn 5.10a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Lady Fingers 5.10b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Lord of the Flies 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
White Dwarf 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Man Hands 5.10d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Crandall Hammer Arete 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Refiner 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
The Bends 5.11c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Gigantor 5.11c/d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Super Nova 5.11d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Tilt 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Two Edged Sword 5.12a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Heat Stroke 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Doom Seam 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Shiny Face 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
My Left Foot 5.13b Sport, 3 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For Radio Head
My Left Foot 5.13b CO : South Platte : ... : Radio Head
P1 - (90 feet, 5.11b) 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Follow overlapping, left-leaning flakes with varied climbing. Must do classic! P2 - (110 feet, 5.13b) 17 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Some desperate moves on nearly perfect rock get you into a left-leaning crack, through a hueco, then transitioning into parallel crack/offsets (crux). There is an optional belay here, or if you've got the endurance, continue thru several 5.12 cruxes to the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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