Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
L to R R to L Alpha
Radio Head offers one of the shortest approaches at Devil's Head, with routes ranging from 5.6-5.13. Approximately half of the routes require some gear placements, so bring at least a small rack of stoppers and cams through 4". Most routes require a 60m rope to lower off, with a few requiring a 70m rope. Tod Anderson's book "Rampart Range Rocks" is the best resource for route information. The crag faces primarily southwest, with most routes getting afternoon sun.
To get to Radio Head, continue along Rampart Range Rd past the turnoff for the campground, heading uphill on the now narrower road. After 0.7 miles you crest the ridge at the Radio Towers. Park here, or up the road a short ways, making sure not to block access to the towers.
36 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Radio Head
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Radio Head:
Sunrise Slab 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Centrist 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Black Velvet 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Right of Center 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Giant Dihedral 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Shimminy Cricket 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Tilt-a-Whirl 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Freezer Burn 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
Lady Fingers 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
White Dwarf 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Man Hands 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Crandall Hammer Arete 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Refiner 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
The Bends 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Gigantor 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Tilt 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Super Nova 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Heat Stroke 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Shiny Face 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
My Left Foot 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 3 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For Radio Head
The Bends 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a CO : South Platte : ... : Radio Head
This is burly on both pitches, involving about every crack climbing technique.P1 (100', 14 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, 5.11c)Start at a bolted, flared chimney. Scott originally climbed this clean with gear, but this would have warranted an R/X rating with the scarcity of good protection available. After the chimney pinches down, the route veers to the left on thin crimps, then up to a comfortable belay just below the large bulge.P2 (100', 2 bolts & gear to 4" to anchor, 5.10d)Follow the hand to fi...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For Radio Head
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From Colorado & Rocky Mountain Region Go to Forum | What's New | Post New Topic