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The Wasp
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Glacial Obsession S 
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Radidudical 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee, April 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 635
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Apr 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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It's all over.
Cool route.

Description 

Follow two bolts up to the roof. Find the jugs at the lip and clip the bolt above the lip. The next move is the crux: a deadpoint lunge to a big jug. Once you pull the move, get your feet up and find a key horizontal flake/knob for your left hand to steady yourself, clip the bolt, and keep climbing on moderate terrain past one more bolt to the top.

Location 

Climbs the right side of the roof on The Throne. Directly to the right of Magic Helmet.

Protection 

5 bolts to chain anchors.


Photos of Radidudical Slideshow Add Photo
Ben getting all horizontal under the roof.
Ben getting all horizontal under the roof.
Latched the big jug..ready to pull..
Latched the big jug..ready to pull..
Caleb at the roof
Caleb at the roof

Comments on Radidudical Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Apr 14, 2008

I think that this climb is better than Magic Helmet. Big moves on big holds makes for big fun. May be 5.10b if you're taller.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 21, 2008

One big reach from good jugs to another big hold! Bring your long set of arms for this one...thought it was harder than Magic Helmet.
By Jeff Jones
From: Elk Ridge, UT
Jun 6, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'd probably give this 3 stars if it was longer. Very fun route. I am a bit taller and I was glad the holds weren't sharp like one hold on the adjacent route. Nice area for cranking off a bunch of quick routes. One question though...why were the anchors so far away from the edge of the face your climbing? It seems like there is a lot of unnecessary drag.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jun 7, 2008

I didn't think the drag was too bad when lowering... But if enough people think it would be better, we can add a new set of anchors.
By darrell hodges
Jul 29, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

10B for people with long arms like me.

Probably 10C for those with nubbier appendages.
By Canyon Copa
May 30, 2012

Really fun roof problem. The first time I climbed it I had a couple holds break on me, but this last time it felt good and solid.